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Author Topic: SPDIF Cable, longer is better! (Interesting articel)  (Read 99411 times)
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jkeny
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« Reply #60 on: December 23, 2010, 11:53:41 pm »

But without the attenuator the cable impedance of 76ohm will meet the receiver input circuit impedance of 75ohm & have exactly the same reflection. How does the added attenuator make this any worse? I don't understand?
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Flecko
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« Reply #61 on: December 24, 2010, 12:05:58 am »

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But without the attenuator the cable impedance of 76ohm will meet the receiver input circuit impedance of 75ohm & have exactly the same reflection. How does the added attenuator make this any worse? I don't understand?
Good point. Ok, than this just "works" if the attenuator has a worse impedance matching than the cable. This may never happen. You win Happy
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jkeny
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« Reply #62 on: December 24, 2010, 12:23:38 am »

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But without the attenuator the cable impedance of 76ohm will meet the receiver input circuit impedance of 75ohm & have exactly the same reflection. How does the added attenuator make this any worse? I don't understand?
Good point. Ok, than this just "works" if the attenuator has a worse impedance matching than the cable. This may never happen. You win Happy
I still don't understand what you are saying but any reflections generated will be "doubly" attenuated as can be seen in the scope shots
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Flecko
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« Reply #63 on: December 24, 2010, 12:48:11 am »

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I still don't understand what you are saying but any reflections generated will be "doubly" attenuated as can be seen in the scope shots
Take a more or less ideal system. Cable has 75ohm and the attenuator has 75.5ohm. If the attenuator is not plugged in, you have close to zero reflections. if you now put in the attenuator, the signal gets reflected when the impedance jumps from 75ohm to 75.5.ohm. Then, when the attenuator meets the input of the dac (75ohm), impedance jumps from 75.5Ohm to 75ohm, again reflections. The reflections get damped but before there was even a lower amount of reflections. Now the signal is worse.
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jkeny
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« Reply #64 on: December 24, 2010, 01:03:29 am »

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I still don't understand what you are saying but any reflections generated will be "doubly" attenuated as can be seen in the scope shots
Take a more or less ideal system. Cable has 75ohm and the attenuator has 75.5ohm. If the attenuator is not plugged in, you have close to zero reflections. if you now put in the attenuator, the signal gets reflected when the impedance jumps from 75ohm to 75.5.ohm. Then, when the attenuator meets the input of the dac (75ohm), impedance jumps from 75.5Ohm to 75ohm, again reflections. The reflections get damped but before there was even a lower amount of reflections. Now the signal is worse.
Sure, you can imagine all sorts of scenarios but how representative of the real-world are they? As stated already in that pdf I quoted, there is no such thing as an "ideal" transmission line! Are you saying the minicircuits attenuators are 75.5 ohms? I'm sure you can find a "cr*p" attenuator somewhere on ebay or in Jaycar but this isn't really what we are talking about! Just stick to minicircuits ones with VSWR close to 1.0!

Let's leave this it's getting nowhere!
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Flecko
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« Reply #65 on: December 24, 2010, 01:31:03 am »

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Sure, you can imagine all sorts of scenarios but how representative of the real-world are they? As stated already in that pdf I quoted, there is no such thing as an "ideal" transmission line! Are you saying the minicircuits attenuators are 75.5 ohms? I'm sure you can find a "cr*p" attenuator somewhere on ebay or in Jaycar but this isn't really what we are talking about! Just stick to minicircuits ones with VSWR close to 1.0!

Let's leave this it's getting nowhere!
Fine. I think there was some misunderstanding. I never wanted to question what was wirtten in this document or your findings or the quality of the attenuator. I just was looking for a situation (in this case completly theoretical, no reference to real world as it turns out ), where the attenuator might be bad.
I am going to sleep now.
See you!
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ar-t
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« Reply #66 on: January 08, 2011, 08:04:31 pm »

Pardon my joining the discussion at this late moment, but we have just became aware of it.

First, the article at the beginning of this thread is from 2004. I do not know the author, but I believe at one point, he has stated that he no longer uses longer cables, as he now builds gear with a faster rise time.

Indeed, as rise time goes down, you can use a shorter cable. We used to supply a 20' cable, with a DAC we made (around 20 years ago), and as most of the sources were very poor, we adapted a long cable,  to minimize the effects of reflections. As has been pointed out, longer cables do not reduce reflections: they merely delay it to a point where they can do less harm.

How much harm can they do? It depends on a lot of variables. Impedance of both the source and receiver, as well as source rise time, are the main factors. I seriously doubt many folks here have the ability to measure those, so let me make a blanket statement, that can be used as a reference point.

Rise times can range from 3-4 nSec, on the high side (typical for HC logic chips, found in most stuff), to under 1 pSec, for "hot rod" stuff, such as you might find from small, niche manufacturers.

Return loss can be as bad as 8-10 dB, on the high side (yes, we have measured stuff this bad), to better than 40 db, on the low side. Stuff this low is not the norm. While we do not maintain an up-to-date chart, of every piece of gear, let's settle on 20 dB, as a rough value. (May be optimistic.)

So, let's start with rise time. Assuming you have a cable with a 70% velocity, it takes around 1.5 nSec, for the signal to travel 1'. So, 4 nSec rise time...........that is around the equivalent of 2.75' of cable. Or, around 1.4', for a round trip. (Remember, reflections have to make one full, round trip more than the incident pulse.) This means the trailing edge of the pulse will arrive at the same time as the first reflection, of the incident part of the signal. IF you have a 1.4' cable.

Not a good scenario.

If you desire that first reflection to arrive at a point where it can't muck stuff up, you make the cable a lot longer. So, there you have the genesis of why some of us use long cables.

(Actually, 20 years ago, before there were a lot of niche companies, making transports, the ones produced by the multi-national conglomerates were slower than this. They were only concerned about meeting regulatory mandates. So, by slowing down the signal, it made compliance much easier. Long cables were almost mandatory.) Obviously, if you have a faster rise time, you can use a shorter cable.

OK, someone is going to say long cables have more attenuation and will spread the pulse more, and, blah, blah, blah. 

Yes, they do. How much? A lot less than one might think. We have equipment that will not only allow us to measure how much the pulse is slowed down, but also how much it adds to the jitter. Let's just say this is overblown. The changes are negligible, for the lengths we are talking about. So, let's drop that part of the debate. We have measured some really slow cables, and for these lengths, it is not enough to lose sleep over.

So, if you a product made by a big company, like Logitech (which makes some nice stuff, at a good price), you may want to use something longer than 1 m. If you are using something from guys like Audiophileo (did I spell that right?), or Wavelength, their stuff is a lot faster, so you can get by with something short.

Ok..........but just how much do reflections harm us?

You have to know the return loss, of both ends, to come close to knowing.

Let's stick with that 20 dB number. (It makes the math easy, even if it is optimistic.)

20 db is 10%. 10%, on both ends. Which means you have 0.1 x 0.1, and end up with 0.01. Or -40 dB. This means the first reflection is down, -40 dB, relative to the signal.

Sounds like not enough to worry about, right?

As an engineer, I would concur. However, extensive listening tests say "Not so fast, bub."

Let me provide an anecdotal explanation, you know, the kind that will get laughed at, on certain DIY forums, that might shed some light.

A buddy convinced me to re-work the input, of his DAC. Reluctantly, I gave in. I forget the final results, but I am sure the input impedance was better than -20 dB. I know his source was better than -40 dB. So, we have 0.01 x 0.1, and get 0.001. That ought to be low enough.

Right? Wrong.

"Should I put an attenuator on the input of my DAC."
Save the $12."
"But should I...............? Can I?"
"Well, I measured that you can add over 20 dB, to your DAC, and it will not lose lock. Your money; do as you see fit."

Later.............

"I bought a 10 dB pad, and it made an improvement!!"

I'm glad for him.

So much for science.

Didn't you just get through telling us your measurements show that extra cable length won't hurt?"

Yes.

"And then you lay this story on us?"

Yep.

"Well, what should we do try?"

Try one, both or neither. Your choice. Just don't make up stuff about why or why not it works.

As I mentioned at the beginning: almost none of you know the answers as to how good (or bad) your gear measures. Don't assume, because it is most likely worse than you want to know. Just assume it is bad, and take steps to alleviate it. If your stuff is good, and your DAC doesn't cr*p out, the odds are you aren't hurting anything, other than your wallet.
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jkeny
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« Reply #67 on: January 08, 2011, 08:21:13 pm »

ar-t, Pat or Jocko,
A nice informative post but can I ask you this as I know you have the expertise?
Is it not the case that the reflection only has consequence when it arrives during the transition point of the DAC which is somewhere in the middle of the rise-time?
What if the length of the cable is made too long & the reflections hits the next pulse's decision point? What would be typical lengths for this to occur?

Why is a shorter cable not also giving the same effect i.e. the reflection will not be coincident on the decision point & will have bounced back & forth enough times before the decision point is reached that it will have died down to insignificance by then? 
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ar-t
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« Reply #68 on: January 08, 2011, 09:11:27 pm »

OK.............jitter...............a real long subject.

Jitter is a tough parameter to characterize. To engineers, like myself, jitter has its roots in phase noise. Which, is nothing more than a form of modulation. But, just like any other kind of modulation, unless you know the amplitude and frequency content, it is just a number. Numbers, without context, are just numbers. They look good on a spec sheet, but that is about all they are.

"Don't you give jitter specs for the stuff your company makes?" Do you want us to believe them?"

Uh...........yeah............numbers that look good on a spec sheet. (OK, someone challenged us to a numbers fight, and they lost. But don't tell them that is the only reason it is there.)

But, let's look at how those numbers come about.

Part of the problem is how you measure it, and how it gives the results.

The over-priced gizmo that we use, has an internal 100 MHz clock, as its standard. They spec it as being better than 3 pSec.

Sounds good, right?

Uh, no!

We can calculate the phase noise of that clock (ok, we have to make some assumptions), and converting that value to 11.2896 MHz (44.1 kHz x 256), it isn't that hot. The reference clock would measure around -70 dBc, at 10 Hz offset. (This means the noise, at 10 Hz from the frequency is only down -70 dB.) For a 11.2896 MHz clock, the same jitter number would give us a value of around -90 dBc. (We have some other gizmo, that tells us our clock is in that ball park. But, that is not the point.)

So, the first thing you have to understand is that you also have to know the frequency of the signal that you are measuring the jitter of.

If I told you our clock measured 700 pSec of jitter, you would say it is horrible. But, if you convert that 11.2896 MHz, down to 44.1 kHz (IOW, word clock), that is exactly what you get!

So, when some self-appointed expert tells you that anything under 2 nSec is not audible, and he fails to mention that he is using 44.1 kHz as the frequency that is being manipulated, to determine jitter sensitivity, set him straight. 2 nSec works out to be -80 dBc, for a 11 MHz clock. Which, is a decent clock.

Sort of.

"Whaddya mean 'sort of'. Explain."

When you are measuring phase noise, or any other form of modulation, you have to know the frequency spectrum. The freeware we use, to convert phase noise to jitter, only goes down to 10 Hz. Which is the lower limit on a lot of test equipment.

Actually, some equipment doesn't even go that low. A lot of oscilloscopes, that have built-in jitter measurin' abilities, only go down to 12 kHz!!!!!!!!!

Why? Because that is what a lot of telecom stuff is spec'ed for.

If you look at the companies that make oscillators/clocks, you will see, in the fine print, if you look really close, because they print it really small, it will say that jitter frequency is > 1 kHz.

Well, jitter measured only down to 1 kHz............anything will look good.

Let's take the 100 MHz clock, in our expensive gizmo, and limit the low frequency limit to only 1 kHz.

25 fSec. Yeah, 0.025 pSec.

Ridiculous, right?

So much for specs.................

The other thing that you have to know, and it is probably the most important.............is whether the jitter is Gaussian or deterministic.

Gaussian: just white noise. Exists everywhere, and can not be avoided. Not too horrible. Except............maybe............well, some of us feel the really close in stuff, you know, below the 10 Hz limit, on most measurements, is more harmful than the higher frequency stuff. But, let's forget about that. At least for now.

Deterministic: bad stuff. Two things can make up this sort of jitter. One is any form of tone, you know........something that is not random. Like 60 Hz, getting into the signal.

OK, this may not be good, but there is one form that is definitely worse.

The other is tones that are data-correlated. IOW, its frequency content has a relationship to the signal who's jitter you are trying to measure.

Yeah, that is the bad stuff. And guess what?? That is the kind you get, when you are listening to SPDIF!

Yep, without going into a lot of theory, the process of recovering the clock from a SPDIF signal gives you lots of data-correlated jitter. Definitely not bueno.

If you have trouble believing that, here is what you can do:

(Only for crazed DIYers, who can replace any chips they may blow up, by inadvertently shorting out some pins.)

Get a battery-powered listening device, of some sort. (Yes, a headphone type would be good.) Find the place on your SPDIF RX chip, that has the PLL filter. Listen to it.

Then play some music, and listen some more. If you can. It may make you ill.

OK, for those of you who don't have those abilities, you will hear a highly-distorted version of what you are listening to.

Yep.............not bueno. But, that is what you will get.

So, is that the only way to get data-correlated jitter? No. Take for an example a line of fine equipment, made by some big company (which, I may or may not have mentioned in my previous post), their gear has a fair amount of data-correlated jitter.

Why?

Well...........let's just say sticking the clock in the same chip as the SPDIF driver may be a good way to save a fraction of a penny, but does bad stuff, for jitter.

Actually, they are not the only ones! Yeah, we have measured other gear, that has data-correlated jitter. Similar manner, just different method. (Anyone who tells you "Hey, we use this brand of SPDIF TX chip, because it has a built-in reclocker, and that negates the use of an external one"................yeah, guess what...........wrong!)

"Well, what do we do?"

If you insist on using SPDIF, know that you will always have a certain amount of deterministic jitter. Even with reclockers and ASRCs. Highly reduced, but not totally eliminated. (Some of it gets converted into other nasty stuff, but let's not go there.)

But, more importantly, don't get hung up on jitter numbers. As you can see, there are all sorts of ways to measure and characterize them. None of them are good at telling you what will come out the end of your DAC. Guys like me use them, in the design process, to help in the evaluation stage. But even we don't all agree on how to measure jitter, or which methods yield useful data. OK, maybe some of us tout our GPT is better than the next guy's GPT. Unless you have a good knowledge of how it is measured, don't get too excited about it.

Having said all of that.................

A certain audiophile mag likes to show plots, of the jitter, of various pieces of gear. I would not get too hung up on them. But............if one piece of gear you are thinking about has a really nasty looking plot, with all sorts of stuff, sticking up, all over the place..................yeah, you may want to look at buying something else. The rest of them...................yep, you may have to listen to them, to know.

OK, I'm typed out, and you are all probably as red-eyed as I am, having both written and read this. You can send hate mail, to our CSB! (She is out of the hospital, but not back to working with us. Translation: no one is there to read it.) I may or may not check back. If I don't, take it as we are busy.

Happy listening, guys................
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jkeny
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« Reply #69 on: January 08, 2011, 09:26:24 pm »

Any light you can throw won my above questions - I would be really interested in your answer?
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jkeny
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« Reply #70 on: January 08, 2011, 10:56:36 pm »

Ah, that's a pity I was hoping to get some answers to these questions as I have had them for a long while & ar-t (aka Pat diGiacommo aka JockoHomo) has the expertise to answer them. Maybe he will in time?  I may even have asked him some of these questions before?
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Flecko
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« Reply #71 on: January 09, 2011, 12:04:27 am »

Hi Pat,
thanks for the explanation! I have learned something today  yes
Greetings
Adrian
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« Reply #72 on: January 09, 2011, 12:18:48 am »

Hi Flecko,
I see you let Jocko know about this thread Happy
Pity he didn't answer the other Qs -maybe later?
Did you try the 20dB attenuators on your Hiface?
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Flecko
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« Reply #73 on: January 09, 2011, 01:58:50 pm »

Quote
I see you let Jocko know about this thread Happy
No I didn't. Happy But I was happy that he got aware of it.

Quote
Pity he didn't answer the other Qs -maybe later?
Yep, would be interesting.

Quote
Did you try the 20dB attenuators on your Hiface?
Not yet. I am still seraching for a distributor in germany. Minicirciuts seems not to ship to germany for such small order. I asked a lokal electronic dealer and the attenuators are about 30€. It seems that I have to buy it there.
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« Reply #74 on: January 09, 2011, 02:07:02 pm »

Minicircuits have international reps in Germany http://minicircuits.com/pages/irep.html#ge - try them
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