Thank you, Rudolf !

Hi again Chad,

Closest would be Norway (Bergen IIRC).

But are you saying you own the Sigma ? ... that would be very special.
And if I got it right that you think they can perform better, then I might agree (I was there when they were build). How to solve that is another matter.

?

Peter

David,

Whether Swich#3 is related I don't even know, but it well could bee because this is about an internal ground connection.
Otherwise it is the same for everybody as far as I know - and like Ramesh said - it is a firm tick and most certainly not something unbearable.

The tick is not ground related that I know of, but it is a very brief mismatch between the sampling rate setting (from the one base clock (44.1) to the other (48)). I think you can mimic it by changing the sampling rate manually in the NOS Driver Control Panel (e.g. switch from 176.4 to 192 and back).

What theoretically could happen is that your amplifier is way over powered, seen by the relatively high attenuation you must apply. Thus, say that you attenuate in XXHighEnd in the realm of 48dBFS, then you have a theoretical ~20dB too much power, which would make your "tick" 20 dB unnecessary loud(er) as well. Could that be the case ?

Peter

Hi there Chad - nice to run into your post.

The original Orelino has been developed by me for it's filter part as a derivative from what Bert did beforehand, and the DSP for the 12"ers in there was done from the ground by me.
I think you have neither crucial part.

... and this is only a small "crucial part" ...

The funniest part is that I personally have one real measure : observe standing waves in the room (read : when they are there a. it is not the very best and b. you will hear the room). Now the thing is : we (Phasure and its community) always hunted for the very best sound and we used all the elements for that in the audio chain. PC, PC Audio Playback software, D/A converter, Power Amps (actively present in the Orelo), USB Cable to the D/A converter, Interlinks. So where we indeed produce each of mentioned elements (with the notice we are crazy, and Bert actually builds the speakers - but he is crazy just the same for these massive projects) - it always comes down to nothing leaving any building when the slightest standing wave can be detected in the slightest (or largest) corner.
Only when the room has explicit wrong dimensions, things may not work out, although with the DSP you may achieve some things after all.

The moral : so many things can be wrong while they should be good, that the in the basis not-distorting open baffle you have at hand, may let go wrong everything when other elements are "not right".

Ramesh (briefremarks) and so many others can testify the truth in this, as - for example - nobody came over and listen to these speakers in advance. Same for the Audio PC. Same for the software (obviously). Also same for the cables. Maybe not the same for the DAC (apparently this is special to people), but all the stuff just builds on the "matching" which by far most people learned from the software (say back in 2008).

And no, I am most explicitly not trying to sell you anything - not even the software - so it is only about the message : work on your other elements and you will have a more than superb speaker. But assumed you have the same power amps as Bert could have provided them and the DSP in there which should do the same job as the Hypex we use in the Orelo, with settings you could have obtained from Bert.

That's all !
Kind regards,
Peter


PS: It may not be commonly known that the Orelo lends itself perfectly for having them 6 maters apart (my situation) and listen to them at 3-4 meters distance. So Yes, this is part of your story.
In the mean time my normal listening distance is 9-10 meters (toeing unchanged).

Oops ... Are you still there Arjan ? I read it, forgot about it and then the forum does not remind me of it any more (no "new"). Apologies !

Yes, sure you can order a new RAM-OS disk. But not for the full price. ;-)
Make that 130 euros for the SSD in this case and the work to be done. Including shipping.
If you can transfer that to the bank account and send me an email that you  did so, then I will make one for you.

If you can't see the bank account easily, drop me an email.

Kind regards,
Peter

I forgot to add this :

This is because you would fully eliminate your D/A converter of choice. Thus, the path would then be :

DAC -> MiniDSP-ADC -> DSP -> MiniDSP-DAC.

Peter

Yes, I have the Pro version.

The subject already reminded me of the allowed usage, which would be not using it for mid/high. So only the replacement of the Hypex would be allowed, hence for Bass only.

A schematic would be useless. Even telling in advance / in theory what to do is quite impossible. Taking out the Hypex would lead to something but it still would be a tedious job.

Something else is that I did not sort out the possibilities of the RME and if it can't bear 10 or so PEQs then it will be useless.
Also, for Bass only, MiniDSP would be sufficient IMO.

Hi Ramesh - good question.

Let me first say that relatively infinite design went into them, just because mechanical upgrade is, well, expensive. It's no NOS1 everybody shipped 5 or so times (and we back to you). Thus, we took measures in advance of desire for upgrade.

Sounds like BS, right ?
Yea, but I was there myself for - how long ? first one year for the Orphean filtering, next I think two years for the system as a whole, with as intermittent the Orelino (which Paul has).
Anyway, you can see it on the (crazy) possibilities of the electronics (mainly the input possibilities which you happily use yourself).

But

One of the more squeezing features is the DSP (including its unreliability as we know by now for already a long time). So what certainly is possible is replace the internal DSP with MiniDSP (there may be more). So that's 192KHz ADC rate - maybe more exists by now ? Or, some crazy thing I think of writing this ... what about the RME DAC /ADC (768 !) whith PEQ's via an app ?
One thing : this now has to be external. And would you care ?
I would not.

Again but :

But do I need it ? let's say that what one does not know, one does not need (this is a but of Dutch). So I myself never went that path.
It would require the experience with replacing a broken Hypex DSP in order to relatively easy figure out how to connect a new DSP, which always be external (just because it won't fit inside).
And then you'd have a plethora of new SQ options. Including DSP-control the mid and high.

This post (or yours) would be a first step out of many more and possibly also many $ more. But take it from me that really good options exist to replace all that resistors, coils and capacitors plus wires, with digital means. And this counts 100% positive when the ADC could be 786 - btw, I have one (RME ADI-2) which I only unboxed 2 months ago, after having it 2-3 years already. But mind you, that PEQ etc. app is only also 2 months new.

Regards and thanks you for the subject,
Peter

Arjan,

If I were you I would rather ask more instead of doing irreversible things.

The fact (?) that the OS may still be minimized, only implies that most probably you're also in "RAM" mode and that you possibly forgot that booting from RAM takes 2 minutes or so. It also means that the disk/ssd must be in the drive, or else nothing will happen.

So just ask - step by step - and tell what you see.

Kind regards,
Peter

Hey Arjan !

To be honest, that doesn't sound too good ...
Died of long time no use is a possibility, then thinking of capacitors dried up or something. I never heard of the situation and it would be disappointing if that really is the case (for something designed to be On 24/7) and further thinking that 3 years would be way short for such a thing.

The best what could have happened in this case is that it is our own PSU which died on you, because that is replaceable. With that I must assume we still have the parts for it (we don't have ready PSU's of that type in stock and the newer ones for the Mach III don't fit).

Can't it be that it has been connected to power all the time (or some of the time) you not using it, and that thunder strike may have caused a few things ?

Best regards,
Peter

Haha. The far more easy answer is that you both use XXHE "wrongly".
In general, there are numerous ways to load tracks into the Playlist Area (numerous : could be a dozen), and copying tracks at the Windows level into a folder, is not among those. I think I have no clue what suddenly brings you both in thinkin it can work like that.
It cant'.

Nik, you conclusion that coverart is not read from the file, is correct. Mind you, for WAV this even officially can't be - or at least 15 years ago that could not be.

Anyway, one of the dozen examples : drag a track onto the PlayList area from Explorer.

N.b.: Working with (small) Galleries would be the official way to play what Tore plays. These become 'meta data" folders. Exists from day one ...

:-)

What is a "Playlist" in this realm ?
The only phenomenon Playlist as such is one from Tidal. And Tidal stopped working for XXHE to begin with.
Playlist Area is something else, but there is no difference between one album or two or 20 with a couple of tracks of each.

And so I guess it requires some elaboration ?
Nothing stopped working over here.


That is because only 14393.0 is supported, and some older of course.

To avoid misunderstanding : creating those interconnects (make new connectors on to them) is a matter of not fitting. SQ will be fine anyway. In the post of that link you see me talking about 0.5mm and such. It is about that. And without the tools, it is guessing until you have it right. The proper tool costs 400-600 or so.

Hi Ramesh,

1. Buy new Neutrik connectors in a suffcient amount so you can practice;
2. Practice on a piece of cable you won't be using;
3. Be prepared to spend 4-8 hours before you can make a decent connection.
4. Be prepared for eventual failure.

http://www.phasure.com/index.php?topic=3026.msg32839#msg32839

The Original Blaxius (thus in green form) has been the only cable I made myself for the mechanical part of that job (outside of soldering), mainly because it seemed inefficient to teach my partner in crime over here how to do it. In the end - with the sleeved cable - that happened after all and I recall that even this "teaching" took quite some hours.

Summarized : I don't think I can advise to do it. And you won't even know in advance how many connectors to buy ($10+ per piece) because you won't know how many will fail. The picture in the link I just gave is telling though - just count the pieces of cable for an approximation.

Best regards,
Peter