Hi,

Just tried with 8x instead of 16x.
> NOS1 (not NOS1a)
> NOS1 Driver 1.0.3
> NOS1 Driver "Stereo Full"
> NOS1 switch #5 up
> "IS Phasure NOS1" OFF (no red light on it)

The Intona High Speed USB Isolator is connected.

First impressions... I am not sure but here I go:
- Bass sounds a little more prominent. Not tighter, but more relaxed.
- Percussions and some details are somewhat less accute.
- There is a certain roundness and at this early stage it could have the "ambiance" adjective to it.

So a little warmer and rounder.

I do not have room treatment. My room is more on the "echo" than "absorbent".

Comparison is made with identical adjustments.

Could this be another way to adjust or address something, no matter if I mention 32/384 or 32/768 ?

Peter, I suppose that at 32/768, the distorsion figures are lesser ?

Alain
PS: I will switch from time to time, but I was curious.

These are very early impressions.

I heard that just 15 minutes ago... Some songs from him I still remember, but they mostly were from the 70s...

He was special and yes, a legend...

RIP Major Tom...

Alain

Hi Peter,

I know this may sound weird, but if you could just have the latest version (10586.0) for my hard drive and what is required to have it work (for the maintenance updates that you may send to us), I would be happy. Adjusting for one version and knowing that this version is the best will suit me fine, as I do not have the intention to go back to windows 8 or 10 build 10074 (as an example).

Of course, only if that will NOT extend the time you will take to have it done this way...

Regards,

Alain

Peter,

Is there a big trade-off if someone adds 8 or 16GB (total = 24-32GB) ? I know the more RAM, the more noise and consumption, but... ?

Just to know your opinion on this...

Thanks,

Alain

Hi Peter,

It is very possible that it was mentioned somewhere in the forum. And if it is, I will remove this post to avoid confusion.

I have a few questions:
A. Does loading Windows in RAM take a lot of RAM or is 16GB enough ?

B. It is my understanding that any software needs to be in RAM to be executed, so when starting XXHE, an instance of it will be loaded (from a portion of RAM to another). Am I right ?


B. It is my understanding that any executable program needs to be in RAM to be executed, so once the OS is copied in one portion of the RAM (the ramdrive portion), it needs to be copied in another portion of the RAM to be executed ? (maybe this is confusing - I will remove it if not really necessary to understand).

C. Are the ramdrives (Drives A: and B:) still required ? Maybe not the A: drive, since XXHE will already be present in OS RAM, but I guess that the B: drive will still be needed ?

D. Depending on your answer in C, what would be the maximum RAM size of the B: drive ? We still need some RAM space available for the SFS...

I put these questions as a start only

Regards,

Alain 
Edit: After reading the tutorial about the OS ramdrive, I hope that my questions are still valuable, but I will let you be the judge of that (still to avoid confusion for those reading this).

Thanks to you Peter ! Your dedication is matched only by your creativity and your sense of pushing the limits beyond our solar system !

One extra-terresttial to another: "Have you seen this guy going ? I am reasonably sure that he is not from this world..."

 

Alain

You can see there is something abnormal with the SSD. The informations are unreadable

Alain

Ehm, just to be sure (it's cold here and my brain does not have enough calories to function fast haha)...

So yes, I leave the black wire disconnected in the NOS1 and I maintain the isolation of the USB card from the PC chassis - not matter if the Intona is between the PC and NOS1 or not ?

Alain  

Hi Peter,

A few years ago, there was an experiment about isolating the PCIe USB card from the PC frame and doing the same on the NOS1 side (detaching the   black ground cable that was tying the USB input port to the frame and taping its tip).

Since I still have a NOS1 (not the NOS1"a") and an Intona now, would you recommend to remove this isolation or to leave it as it is ? 

If I am asking this, it's because I do not have the knowledge if this is good or bad now...

Thanks,

Alain

Happy New Year to all

I hope that we have health, good hearing, lots of fun and we continue in this crazy journey that has brought us together !

And please Peter, stay "grazy" as you are !

Alain

Maybe this is why I prefer to use Esata ? I find it faster than USB, even USB 3 and I am talking about Sata II (3gbit) or Sata III (6gbit). I did not know that now 10gbit exists with USB 3 gen 2... The fastest I got with USB 3 gen 1 was 60MB/sec (and this was varying a lot), while with Sata I could get beyond 80MB/sec... This with the same HDD (I have a few external cases that carry the 2 ports).

About using faster speed while booting, you probably tried playing with "Legacy" (ON and OFF) USB peripherals in BIOS ? Maybe there is something to dig there ? Unless there is a possibility to load a driver that is universal at first ? I don't know...

Alain

Hi Arjan and Peter,

Thanks for the precisions. I did not stay next to my music PC while it was booting, so I did not see that the led had stopped blinking after Windows was fully loaded.

The only reason why I mentioned this is that my first reaction was one of "Oh no, they forgot to turn the led off...", but all is ok.

So a USB port will work only at full speed while the OS is booting... Not funny...

Alain
PS: Sorry for the "pollute" term on my part. I would prefer to be with the "pioneers" instead of trailing behind...

I received my Intona (industrial version) today. After letting it warm up (finally it looks like we are in winter), I connected it. For the moment, I got a 38cm USB cable that was included with the iFi iUSB that connects from the PC to the Intona, then a Clairixa USB cable from Intona to NOS1 (not the NOS1a).

I notice that the lead is flashing when starting the PC, but when music starts playing, it stays lit, without blinking (even when not playing music). Even after restarting the PC, it does not blink.

First impressions are interesting. Everything is cleaner, with more details and air. Not night and day, but a fluidity.

I will not "pollute" the thread as I am still with Win 8 pro plain vanilla for the moment. I intend to switch to Win 10 (again), but for the moment I am fine with W8 (XXHE 2.03, to be upgraded soon for 2.04) .

I like it ! Thanks Peter

Alain

Peter,

When you mention "radiation", I suppose you mean that the Intona is not built to hold them since it is not isolated with a material that can contain it ? This of course, as a consequence of cutting the ground voltage ?

Alain

Wow, what a day To get the new XXHighEnd version, then read the latest post about the revised Intona USB Isolator (industrial)...

I know that is not the wisest thing in my actual situation (money wise), but Christmas time surely has something to do about my decision to say "What the heck" and order the industrial unit

You have a strong voice Peter I can hear you from my (not so) cold part of the world

Kind regards,

Alain