Thanks Peter.

Still I wonder if you have been able to implement something that would defeat one of the 2 clocks through the USB channel ? Or maybe I misunderstood this...

Regards,

Alain

Hi Peter,

What a way to talk about your compatriot Do you mean because of the HDMI connection, because an I2S needs a shorter path (or for the 2 reasons) ?

Alain

I saw this on Computer Audiophile: http://pinkfaun.nl/portal/productaanbod/dac-streaming-audio/1440-i2s-bridge

Seems interesting, apart from the HDMI interface...

Alain

I don't have a conclusion about these differences... Could this be caused by a "lesser" demand on USB ?

But there is an added value with 8x: no more "cuts" with very low SFS

Alain

Hi Pedal,

I have seen this sometimes, but not sure... Is it possible that some Windows updates have passed through ?

Alain

Thanks Joachim. Finally I read all the article It is interesting and easy to follow. I will try what he suggests about the chassis voltage just to see where it leads me

Regards,

Alain

Ah... My knowledge about electricity is quite limited... Let's say for instance that the current arrives in the power supply... The neutral should be at the other end, where it leaves... If the travel is done in reverse ?

Guess I am just showing my ignorance here...

I'll do some searching and hope to bring back some answers... Or more questions...

Alain

You are right... I still have an LSI RAID controller card that I removed from my All Purpose PC after playing with RAID 0 for a while... I would not recommend this, since I would tend to believe that it must be quite noisy electronically speaking...

It did that since I was curious and at the time the Intel software for RAID was unstable on my motherboard (ICHR9)... But RAID 0 ? It's fast, but there is absolutely no integrity with RAID 0... As soon as something fails, all fails... Got to have backups !

I still think that 2TB should be the maximum for a drive (even 1TB should be better with only one platter instead of multiple ones)... I thought about that for a while in the event I would need more than 2TB, but I can still hold all I like into this capacity... For the moment.

And from what I see, it would prevent a lot of headaches

Alain

Ah... I see that from the parameters I found (that I could corroborate by testing my cables), the current arrives in the white wire from the picture you provided with the NOS1... Isn't normally the red wire the one from which the current is supposed to arrive ?

Sorry if I did not react to this in my first reply...

Alain

Peter,

Well yes, I know we are stuck with this here (cannot do 180 degree swap easily)... I was hoping there was some kind of official (or unofficial) guidelines that was written by an association of some kind... Lots of "some kind" eh...

I just know that for some appliances it does not matter, but for others it could (light bulb, switches that should either "cut" the live and neutral, or at least the live, not only the neutral), etc...

Things can look so much "acquired" but they are not...

I hope that you did the test while you have the chance to do so

Alain

Peter,

I am not sure if this will help, but this Microsoft article could explain a few things...
http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/windows/desktop/aa363785%28v=vs.85%29.aspx

A basic disk is normally how a disk is when we buy it. If someone wants to switch it to "Dynamic", it would be to have RAID or Spanning (with the notion of a "volume" that could for example take more than one drive)...

So for me, it would be best to leave it to "Basic", otherwise we will all be barking at the moon

Alain

Hi Peter,

I never really cared to ask this, but I tend to overlook this question... I found two pictures showing from what slot the live voltage is supposed to be here in Canada (and I believe it is the same in US)...

The 2 pictures that you can see are showing where the live current is located (which prong) as opposed to the neutral one.

I think it could be interesting for each of us to tell where the current flows as opposed to the neutral - this on a cable with the appropriate connection for the socket wall on one extremity and the IEC side (Is it the same for all ?).

So I will start...
Here in Canada, this is how it is done...

Alain
 

Hi Peter,

I do not see any "recertified" on my hard drive label. BTW it is mentionned that the firmware is CC52.

I did not try to have it bootable though... I can't recall if I formatted it with my old All Purpose PC or my UEFI music PC though...

Alain

Peter, I have the same drive (Seagate ST4000DM000) and it was created and formatted as a "base disk"... Does this means that it is defined as MBR (as opposed to Dynamic disk) ?

Just to mention that my motherboard is from 2007 and does not have EFI nor UEFI in Bios... This PC being my "All purpose" PC on which that drive is connected through Esata (so external) and my PC is connected directly to my music PC through LAN.

Alain
Edit: if someone finds something that explains clearly how things are related (Basic vs Dynamic disks, GUID aka GPT vs MBR), maybe this would help us to have a good understanding about what is feasible and what is not...

Peter,

Ah ! I stand corrected... I wrongly stated that I switched back to the iFi iUSB wall wart, but that's not correct.

I switched back to the wall wart that came with the external enclosure, not the iUSB. The iUSB does not work with the external enclosure anymore. I can't explain why it is so, since the SSD drive is told to use 195mW of power when active, while the iUSB can deliver 5 watts (5V x 1A). Maybe the enclosure itself takes more power than one would expect, but the result is that there is not enough current to power the SSD. Maybe the explanation lies elsewhere, but I can't wrap my head around this...

Regards,

Alain