Erwin !

You are one of those who deserves a prize for your efforts alone.
Maybe it even deserves me working it out (after all). In any event you're a man to my heart with those (Taskmanager etc.) details.

All right - I only read this minutes ago and I must digest it (and read it again a couple of times).
It feels a bit like Android doing the trick here, because that allows formally for playing offline. ... I don't even know how formal this all really is, and to what degree it is actually known that it can work like this. What do you think ? is this known indeed, or did you just found out yourself ?

What's comes across as odd to me, is the (not-) streaming part, which would go unnoticed. Thus, who would know or see the difference, unless you pull the cable ? But careful, because you pull the cable of the control point (which would be Android in your case) and you did not put the Ethernet cable. I think you showed sufficiently you could do that as well, but you did not do that and also did not contemplate that (IIRC after reading all one time). Or did you ?

On a side note, in the last version of XXHighEnd - which contained the special download for Tidal personnel so they could check the working (which never happened and instead I was kicked out), exactly that happens; when playing Attendedly, you (Erwin) would be able to show exactly the same, with no hiccups between tracks. As if it was streaming, but it still was not. Thus exactly your story, hence I surely understand and how it could work. Btw, similar to what Audirvana does from its start - telling that it plays from memory while it takes a minute to do so, in parallel to playing itself. Read : that *thus* does not work (out) at all and sounds poor. Only XXHighEnd really plays from memory (say a full album) without any further intervention.

... But I would be able to let it work, at least when not gapless is allowed. You'll understand. Or other trickery I can't oversee yet.

So I will need to dive into this - and like to. The when is more problematic these days, but we'll see. If you have to spout more meanwhile, don't hesitate. 

Peter

Did you swap output cables ? then you can prove whether it is that NOS1.
What I am thinking of is that it is possible that at such an earlier louder pop situation a fuse in the amp blew (a plop is a high current high transient burst). Thus, inputs at the amp can be protected by fuse, and this is then per channel.

Also, when you don't check the DC Offset and one channel is completely off (a 1 or -1 shows), that channel may be completely silent.

Hello again Erwin - Thanks for this all !


But there it goes wrong. At least to begin with.

XXHighEnd is that because of its ultra low footprint for the Sound Engine (you can hardly detect CPU cycles when it plays - even during upsampling to 705.6/768.

There is a reason that I don't allow streaming - this is because it won't sound good at all; you can read about that everywhere, although nobody guesses that this is abou that footprint again.

You have your good reasons to have that UPnP control point, but avoiding a (stupid) user interface for the work involved on my side with only negative (SQ !) result is really not worth the trouble.
Btw, you can use XXHighEnd's "control point" on your phone just as well - just set the proper scaling. Well workable, still not the nicest, and if you reall want to search for music and select it, a tablet still is the best (totally nothing wrong with that).

But whatever can be complained about the user interface, I wouldn't care less once I am used to it (and you are too) if it only brings the better SQ.

N.b.: To picture better what it all is about (about not streaming and such) : XXHighEnd is a pure memory player. So all music you play (e.g. an album) goes into memory first. Some people have applications to even pull the network cable during playback (then no control possible, unless on the renderer machine with a keyboard connect or other tweaks which tweaks are always very audible (SQ gets worse)), so everything matters.

Ever thought of how a USB cable (I don't know whether your have a configurable Lush^2 or ^3) so (more than) vastly can influence SQ ? officially it can't. But everything, really everything matters.

But I sincerely thank you for the contribution !
Peter

Hi again David,

Then you'd have a dysfunctional NOS1. Everything is possible, but it would be the very first time. The person you got it from should know about it, right ? 

Regards,
Peter

Right channel : You have the Driver settings wrong in the NOS Control Panel (should be Multi Channel 4.0) and/or you have Switch #5 in the wrong position (should be down).

David (I assume you are up and running again) - all you describe is perfectly normal. But your required attenuation is not (at all). So it is anticipated that this matches or else you have poor sound to begin with (you would loose too many bits).
It is also true that prior to the latest NOS Driver, things were different - the hardware was also different. So it matches the hardware.

The fact that your channel stopped working, tells us (me, but also you) that you push through a too large current. This is again thee attenuation thing, but merely : your power amp is too much over powered (you could say that your speakers are too sensitive, but this would be non-sensical).

I have never ever given the advice to use a pre-amp, but it would solve your problem. But don't do that ... try an other power amp instead.

Best regards,
Peter

PS: The faint sound from one channel came from even the DC Offset went "off" because of it. Or maybe I should say that you *always* need to check that (also please look what Ramesh wrote).

PPS: Ask (more) if needed.

Hello Tore,

Great thanks for that. But looking at the past communication with Tidal (which was ever so strange) it looked like they are on to me/us and just forbid me to develop anything with Tidal. For example, I asked what to do, how I can proceed / start all over, and it just was not possible.

So it seems a waste of time.

Also, I was on the good track (on) myself again, but the last thing I did was last December. That looked promising and I can use it myself, sort of.
It seems beating around the bush, but you have no idea how much time I wasted on this. Thus, whatever solution, it should be future proof.

Best regards for now,
Peter

Hi there Erwin !

With apologies for the late response, let's say that I finally digested this and now wonder how you do it, assumed you see possibilities for a. XXHighEnd (this seems clear ;-) and b. with the use of the NOS1.
I should add that 24/768 should be possible or else I think I "know" SQ will be more poor (because of aliasing).

So, let's have it ?


Kind regards,
Peter

Thank you, Rudolf !

Hi again Chad,

Closest would be Norway (Bergen IIRC).

But are you saying you own the Sigma ? ... that would be very special.
And if I got it right that you think they can perform better, then I might agree (I was there when they were build). How to solve that is another matter.

?

Peter

David,

Whether Swich#3 is related I don't even know, but it well could bee because this is about an internal ground connection.
Otherwise it is the same for everybody as far as I know - and like Ramesh said - it is a firm tick and most certainly not something unbearable.

The tick is not ground related that I know of, but it is a very brief mismatch between the sampling rate setting (from the one base clock (44.1) to the other (48)). I think you can mimic it by changing the sampling rate manually in the NOS Driver Control Panel (e.g. switch from 176.4 to 192 and back).

What theoretically could happen is that your amplifier is way over powered, seen by the relatively high attenuation you must apply. Thus, say that you attenuate in XXHighEnd in the realm of 48dBFS, then you have a theoretical ~20dB too much power, which would make your "tick" 20 dB unnecessary loud(er) as well. Could that be the case ?

Peter

Hi there Chad - nice to run into your post.

The original Orelino has been developed by me for it's filter part as a derivative from what Bert did beforehand, and the DSP for the 12"ers in there was done from the ground by me.
I think you have neither crucial part.

... and this is only a small "crucial part" ...

The funniest part is that I personally have one real measure : observe standing waves in the room (read : when they are there a. it is not the very best and b. you will hear the room). Now the thing is : we (Phasure and its community) always hunted for the very best sound and we used all the elements for that in the audio chain. PC, PC Audio Playback software, D/A converter, Power Amps (actively present in the Orelo), USB Cable to the D/A converter, Interlinks. So where we indeed produce each of mentioned elements (with the notice we are crazy, and Bert actually builds the speakers - but he is crazy just the same for these massive projects) - it always comes down to nothing leaving any building when the slightest standing wave can be detected in the slightest (or largest) corner.
Only when the room has explicit wrong dimensions, things may not work out, although with the DSP you may achieve some things after all.

The moral : so many things can be wrong while they should be good, that the in the basis not-distorting open baffle you have at hand, may let go wrong everything when other elements are "not right".

Ramesh (briefremarks) and so many others can testify the truth in this, as - for example - nobody came over and listen to these speakers in advance. Same for the Audio PC. Same for the software (obviously). Also same for the cables. Maybe not the same for the DAC (apparently this is special to people), but all the stuff just builds on the "matching" which by far most people learned from the software (say back in 2008).

And no, I am most explicitly not trying to sell you anything - not even the software - so it is only about the message : work on your other elements and you will have a more than superb speaker. But assumed you have the same power amps as Bert could have provided them and the DSP in there which should do the same job as the Hypex we use in the Orelo, with settings you could have obtained from Bert.

That's all !
Kind regards,
Peter


PS: It may not be commonly known that the Orelo lends itself perfectly for having them 6 maters apart (my situation) and listen to them at 3-4 meters distance. So Yes, this is part of your story.
In the mean time my normal listening distance is 9-10 meters (toeing unchanged).

Oops ... Are you still there Arjan ? I read it, forgot about it and then the forum does not remind me of it any more (no "new"). Apologies !

Yes, sure you can order a new RAM-OS disk. But not for the full price. ;-)
Make that 130 euros for the SSD in this case and the work to be done. Including shipping.
If you can transfer that to the bank account and send me an email that you  did so, then I will make one for you.

If you can't see the bank account easily, drop me an email.

Kind regards,
Peter

I forgot to add this :

This is because you would fully eliminate your D/A converter of choice. Thus, the path would then be :

DAC -> MiniDSP-ADC -> DSP -> MiniDSP-DAC.

Peter