Hi Michael,

Thank you for sharing.

Things like the Driver setting or any other OS setting (that's what it is), is to be set in the BASE OS. Thus boot into BASE, change whatever you want, boot back into RAM.
That's all.

Regards,
Peter

Stanley - this is too strange;
Did you change anything else in the music room or even the house ?

and/or


What happend, you reckon, that this suddenly works ? (earlier on you told that that did not work as well)

Regards,
Peter

Arvind,

I recognize the urge to do this, but it is not something I like to change. So I sought it in different settings.
Are you using the settings I gave (did I ?) or did you deviate from that and only then got that urge to lower the bass output ? (and now end up with an overall better)

I am just curious because I held on and now don't have the problem (urge) any more.

Could be interesting ...

Best regards,
Peter

Hi Gerard,

If I tell you that this is related to showing the Wallpaper Coverart, would you be able to tell me what you changed in that realm ?

Peter

Stanley,

Sorry for a late response ...

No, does not make sense really. I assume you can not get music out of it either way, am I right ?

Did you try another USB port on the PC ?

Peter

Hi Arvind,

Check your folders on the higher levels, like in your case Tidal\ and whatever is above it (I use XXTT for that as per XXHighEnd setting in the Intermediate Files Folder);
There shouldn't be anything in there. Not any single file.

Best regards,
Peter
 

Hi Stanley,


Maybe ...
Does the same happen when you use the U USB input ? (this skips the Phisolator)

For further analysis it's easiest if you take of the cover and observe the green led you refer to in the left hand leg (on that PCB which is the USB board) when you plug out/in the USB cable (better is off/on the NOS1 but it's a bit chicken-egg when you don't know whether the cable socket(s) may not be right). Start the NOS Driver Control Panel. You can see various options, like
a. stays all dark;
b. turns solid green without flashing;
c. starts flashing but stops after 1-2 seconds.
d. flashes as normal.

If you never see anything good happen (which would be d.) then it's good to verify with an other USB cable.

Regards,
Peter

Dear Arvind,

You are able to seriously keep up the suspense ! For you too counts that for at least a week I was urged to ask you whether everything is all right. But I guess people like you are realy serious about the breaking in and waiting for that to be sufficiently so.


Yes, that is really how I feel some times. And for you too of course, counts that you are "fully on par" whatever that may mean to others, but for me it means that your judgment can easily overrule mine, us having the same system for all of its components. So who actually says that my own judgment and ears are right ?
you !

Thank you Arvind,
Peter

Great stuff, Robert.

I can concur with both you are saying. And something like the 70.19 could well be in the area of the better. Also, we already know from more recent past that the higher the SFS (all else the same) the more "bright" things become. This really is a "tuner" at this moment.

For me, with he Stealth III and most certainly also the Lush^2 + Blaxius^2 this expresses even more. And so much more that one can start to see how ir is really working. But that expresses in the lower regions. So exactly as you talk about "losing the edge of" which is quite literal because your "too smooth" indication, is what one sees happening at the far more square exhibit at the lower frequencies (like for synthesizers).

That all said, as per briefremark's (Ramesh') finding, making the hardware buffer's size smaller now is a 3rd dimension into this.The largest buffer (16ms) emphasizes whatever the SFS does for result (your post plus see above). Making that buffer 4ms and all seems to become more coherent and requires less (brain) attention. Sadly I am afraid that we can't all manipulate that hardware buffer. So I am talking about the NOS1's Driver Control Panel where it can be set, and it is not said that you can set this somewhere too. And if you can, will it ever work out the same ? (although I start to be more and more surprised how there can be such consensus over (now even hardware) settings which work out the same for so many). So if you can find one, try to lower it.

As always, thank you Robert,
Peter

Hi Ramesh,


I tend to agree with that !
It is more refined. Less exaggerated. Maybe I was just looking for just that ...
Additionally, better PRaT ?

Thanks a lot,
Peter

Hi Ramesh,


Yes, that surely can be. Otoh, often this is unavoidable and undoubtedly I have that too. So I don't know ...
Hard to give the real hints, except for excluding that it can be the new interlinks which imply the situation. And btw, *if* they would be the cause, then it would go away when you power off the speakers, right ? but only switch them off when you are used to that hence know how to do it (may sound daft to others, but you'll know what I mean). And speaking about that ... can't this situation be so since the happening you had the other day (2 months or so back) ?

And never underestimate how critical each of the USB cable-connections (3x) are to the DAC. So don't hesitate to push them in more tight ...

And having said the latter, why wouldn't it be so that it is just that ? I mean, those interlinks are vastly in the way now and quite a bit more than before. Also, now you can power off speakers what you want, it is not going to help. Exchange with the original Blaxius is also not going to help. So ... that has to be it ? How did you route the lot (what goes over which etc.) ?

Regards,
Peter

Hi Ramesh,

So you say that if you'd replace the Blaxius^2 with Blaxius in a live system (allowed to set the amps Off), no reboots or anything, the issue will be gone ?

Regards,
Peter

Robert, aoplogies. Somehow yesterday I was not able to interpret this easy question. I read it as "what is the relation with".
Now the answer :

I have been careless and after looking just now I found it was set to 140.19. This is because at first the SFS itself was at that. Better would be to activate the "Maximum the same as SFS". That is, assumed one wants to reserve as least memory as possible. But now you won't be able to test e.g. 20 after a while (memory eaten).

And hmm ... yesterday I changed my Nervous Rate from 10 to 3, did not find it to be a real difference, but now I see that it also requires an Apply (so it was atill active at 10). Maybe it was Black Friday ? Or the placebo just didn't work.
I now clicked Apply. Next we can bet that tonight all sounds lousy and I can't find why. Maybe someone reminds me ...

Regards,
Peter

Haha.

Robert - What the Max SFS would do is reserve memory for the higher SFS settings; when you didn't make this reservation, the problem could be that by the time you'd need that higher SFS (like 140 again), the contigous memory has been eaten and it will require a reboot first.

From this follows that you can apply the Max SFS as a tweak. Notice though that I don't have the real experience on this (but since you ask ...);
The more memory you reserve, the less the OS will be capable of using it. This is because *you* are using it (albeit empty except for the small SFS amount you really use). This could force OS tasks not to run - and you don't want to run anything anyway (except for your audio).
It also would prevent the Garbage Collector to be active regulalrly because what wasn't used (because you use it permanently) doesn't need to be cleaned up either.
Etc.

Contrary to the above, one could argue that you make it the OS more difficult by taking out memory it needs to use. So now more activity takes place.
Again, etc.

Peter