Well I am happy I don't have to reboot!
But then I get/got confused about the reboot reported here when playing Flac. Since I play a lot of flac, no wav's actually I thought we still need the reboot. But I guess it is not the big thing it looked like.
So the main point is flacs sound different/worse then wav?

Peter,
On the 12th of july you replied in the 5-02 thread:


The next version will sustain this ...
(if all is right).

So that made me think you would have the solution but maybe my english understanding is at trouble here.

Anyway it's allways nice things can still be improved

Welll as I recall it there was a need to reboot after changing the play-list for best sound quality. Somewhere you said this would not be necessary anymore for the next release.

Wasn't it suppossed to be fixed with the latest release?

Hi Bigear and Paul,
On DIYaudio.com there is a lot of knowledge about the gainclones. But if you really want to know it's easy to build a gainclone and interchange the chips because mostly the're build on very small printboards.
But I think the real merit will be heard with all of them.
Since it is a clone of a design by 47-labs the components will not be the real gamebreaker. 47-labs uses some cheap components that can easily be bettered but that's the fun part of DIY.
And of course the power supply is very important!

Thanks, Bigear, Peter but especially Boleary!
Those settings make a big difference!
(Core appointment 3, straight cont. and time 2.5 ms)
Now I understand why everybody is so positive!

I agree with Gerard!

I tired to check the inputimpedance of the gainclones, but it looks like they are at least higher then 100k.
As long as it is not changed by an extra inputresistor.
I guess that is high enough for the NOS1 to deliver into two parallel gainclones?

For a cheap gainclone offer:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160590654250#ht_4487wt_1235

OK, here is a detailed description I made for Gerard:

Hoi Gerard,

Het is heel simpel, een klosje lakdraad, voor trafo's en spoelen, van de gewenste diameter bijv. 0,35 mm voor hoog en 1 mm voor laag, kopen.
Een aantal keer de lengte die je nodig hebt eraf rollen en naast elkaar leggen, na ze in stukken geknipt te hebben. Dan neem je bijvoorbeeld 4 stukken en die ga je in elkaar twisten, gewoon draaien dus. Dan nog een keer 4 stukken hetzelfde. Dan heb je daarmee een plus en een min-ader. Van de ene geef je met gekleurd plakband aan de uiteinden aan of het de plus of min is. Dan twist je die twee weer in elkaar en heb je één luidsprekerkabel. Voor stereo nog een keer en voor biamping nog twee keer extra.
Nu komt het leuke karwei om de uiteinden schoon te maken.
Met een scherp mes kun je de lak op de laatste 2 cm er af krabben en daarna met een soldeerbout de uiteinden vertinnen waarbij de laatste lakresten verbranden.
Met een multimeter kun je dan kontroleren of alle kontakten echt goed zijn.
Dan alles weer netjes samendraaien en uitproberen.
Check nog wel even dat plus en min geen kortsluiting maken!

Groeten,

Gerard.

OK, OK, you need it in English?

You take a roll of enamelled wire like they use for trafo's and coils. Say .35 mm diameter for  mid/high and 1 mm for bass.
Take the length you need four times, cut them off and lay them together. Twist them together. Now you got one wire for plus or for negative.
Do the same again for negative or plus. These two wires you twist together again. This makes one wire for left or right high/mid or base.
So for stereo repeat this once. For biwiring two times more.
Now you have to clean the enamel from the wire at all ends of all strands for about 2 cm.
You can do this by scr*ping with a sharp knife and after that using a soldering iron to put some solder and this will burn off the last residue of the laquer. Then for convenience put a piece of coloured tape on one of the wires on both ends to identify plus/minus.
After this you check with a multimeter to see if all strands are conducting. Only after that you can solder the seperate strands together for plus/minus seperately. After that check with the multimeter to see there is no shortage between plus and minus.
After that your ready to listen!

I think I got the idea from an english forum in a topic about the anticable where the famous dutch hifi-journalist John van der Sluis gave the tip about enamelled wire. I tried the tips and found that only one pair of single strips sounded very good but also a bit coloured as if there was a specific resonance. Twisting more strands solved this, so I guess the important part of the twisting is the added rigidity that keeps the wire from moving/resonating. And of course the lack of plastic must work the same way as using very expensive capacitors, no pvc but paper in oil and the likes.
You could try oxygen free copper or something similar, but remember the coils in your speakers are made most of the time from the same simple enamelled wire.

So good luck!

YES!
I had some hotfixes for the SP1 that I thought would not hurt.
So backwards and now it's OK.

Maybe, the updates have to be uninstalled from the last one backwards.
Makes sense but sounds like a lot of work

Time is running out so...
I uninstalled SP1 RC and after some reboots received a blue screen
Something about 'Multiple IRP, complete requests'.
So did an automatic recovery and now I am back where I started today.
Great programmers there in Seatle...
Peter, please make a XXHE-version for Linux!!!

@ Scroobius:
Glad you enjoy these cables too!
It's a pain in the ass to build them, but it is worth it!
Maybe we have to try this for interconnects and inside speakers and amps too...
Other cheap tricks that work: The lightweight stuff that women use to scrub their feet.
Make three blocks and put it under speakers amps etc..
Specially the record player if you got one. And in that case a record mat of Origin live.
But for XXHE-tricks we have to wait for Peter and now for Mani too....

Well they promised 20 and this is what we get: