Thats a great setup! That's eight 15" woofers in one room? I only got two so I can imagine the effect .

The blue component in the middle looks like a mini nos or is the room really that big?!

Regards, Coen

Unfortunately I could not attend the show this weekend.
Anyone got a report for us?

regards, Coen

For the statistics:

With the same settings 7-4 sounds definitely different from previous versions. And I am not even using the NOS1 nor PE at the moment!

Obviously a much smoother and complete midrange, very captivating ! Also a bit different bass, less pointy and more 'ripe' (audiophile speak for more pronounced overtones?).

regards, Coen

Unfortunately PC motherboards with one PS/2 port only support either the mouse or the keyboard, not both. The other one is supposed to be USB.

There have been incidental portable computers (like "work-out-your-laptops") in dynosaur times that had a special PS/2 configuration supporting both mouse band keyboard on one port with a splitter.
That was a long time ago, no such bliss these days.

I have a PS/2 portless motherboard and was looking for a non-usb mouse/keyboard solution and even went so far to buy a COM port mouse. It worked on the internal COM connector but had a sonic signature that I didn't like.

Most likely the PCI solution is based on a PCI-USB hub, might as well go for usb stratight away. OTOH I didn't try...

No solution for this problem yet (not using USB for kb and mouse).

regards, Coen

Nope, not any that I remarked anyway.

Regards, Coen

Fwiw,

I injected a little zest into my setup again by lowering the buffers on XX side (see my sig). I have a NOS1 though.

I feel I never had better digital in my home, especially on the timing (musicality) side ,which I value highly. This fell into place with the low buffers and dc blocking cap on the poweramp input (no preamp).

Regards, Coen

Good read,

But what is an UEFI formatted SATA III drive?
Is that about the Bios being able to boot from a 3TB+ drive?

Regards, Coen

You may be very well right. Some updates aren't restorable/removable either. The route of the disk image or a new sp1 install on a new disk (or partition?) sounds more like the way to go if you like to go back without much trouble.

Regards, Coen

Hi,

You can read the "plane vanilla" threads about win7 and sp1. Finally sp1 won, that is for 09-6-1c. I guess nobody compared for the latest version of xx.

You can make a windows restore point before upgrading and go back after if you don't like it.

Regards, Coen

Hi Praphan,

Found the manual. Your Mc2301 has 10uF input caps on the balanced inputs. So no need go soldering!

Regards, Coen

P.s. if you want a copy, pm me your mailaddress

Ok!

I'm shure Mani has enough with some extra length for the K, V and M cables. I've a 5 meter version in use, like a very basic remote control.

An (integrated) USB extender may become handy when your pc is in the beasement . just don't plug anything in if you don't need it!

regards, Coen

Hi Praphan,

Good plan. With the circuit diagram (service manual may allready be on the internet) you can see if there are allready any capacitors in the signal path before the input tube.

No need to open your amp to void warranty or wait for another year . Another idea is to solder the grounds of a male RCA to a female RCA to eachother and connect the hot pins with the capacitor. You can plug this homebrew adapter into your amp and your interlink into the female end.
If you are balanced, you can do the same but then you will need two capacitors per channel.

regards, Coen

Peter,

Are we talking about the same thing? Shure the PS/2 chip is connected to PCI-e, but to add only an extention cable?

See below for what I think a KVM cable is...

regards, Coen

Hi Praphan,

My Amp = 80% diy so I can insert anything at a moments' notice when I like to. Commercial gear with PCB and so on may be more challenging.

My amp is two stages, coupled with a capacitor. Any DC on the output is caused by the feedback circuit from the output terminals to the cathode of the input tube (which has a positive voltage across it). Probably your amp has such an arrangement too, so don't be surprised to find some dc there.

The first tube does about 60X of gain so 33 mV translates into something like a 2 Volt difference at the anode. Nothing special, tube and resistor variation cause bigger differences. But the impact of the input cap is dramatic, this is imho not related to the shifted operating point but to some sideeffect of DC on the wire (yet unknown to me).

Inserting a cap is simple. I used a Black Gate NX 4,7uF I had lingering around and soldered it between the cinch/RCA input plugs and the wire to the input(resistor) of the first tube. You may open the amp (everything diconnected!!!) and find those wires and follow them to the input tubes. You may encounter a big cap or not. If not it makes sense to enter such a cap between the RCA and the first tube (any place will work provided that the cap is in series with the signal).

PA on with minus engaged puts everything in its right place.

regards, Coen

I concur with Peter,

LF below the cutoff frequency of the loudspeaker is probably worse than DC. even with 1Volt DC across the terminals, with an 8 ohm (nominal, 7 Ohms DC resistance)  this translates to 140mWatt of power. This is not going to blow your amp on transients.

LF below the c.o. frequency is not well damped by the speaker (if at all). This means high excursions wich is bad for linearity when playing loud, limiting the peaks and not to forget gives rise to doppler effects, modulating the signal.

regards, Coen