Good, I am running W7 Pro with (official release) SP1 and all updates included... and that hopefully should not make a difference either.

Bert

We have more than that (120Mb)...but I am not connected (25Mb is quick enough for me). Soon we will have glass fibre here in the street to choose from too...

Bert

This way it is still the last amp in the chain being able to deliver the rated power for one amp where everything in front should be seen as source with more or less added gain...

A bridged amp is connected differently, more in "parallel" or "balanced" to be able to process more current or Voltage at the speaker terminal connectors.

Bert

If Gain Clone's can be bridged multiple times then I can help (using BD30 amp boards). I stll have enough BG's N types laying around to stick into a few boards... 

Not sure how much bridging you'll need though... (this totally depends on the size of the room and how loud you want to go).

Bert

Your speakers should not be lower than 6 ohms over their entire frequency range (impedance curve) giving the amplifier an easy load. Mani's ESL's are basically capacitors giving lower impedance at rising frequency which is a problem for most amplifiers, especially if you like to crank it up a little. Your gainclone is not sensitive to very low impedances in terms of distortion and even capacitance does not bring it off track, they just do not like low impedances limiting their maximum output.

Good thing is that the amps will not gradually start to "complain", they only make a weird (loud!) noise when the limit is reached (as if things are broken!). No problem for the amp or speakers though, it is an internal protection that just makes noise like that. If you do not hear that specific noise then all is well and you have plenty of power...

At your place you will not be able to hear the limiting noise coming from the GC's (and if you try then I do not want to be there without earplugs!!!) unless you connect low sensitive speakers to the amps and turn up the volume.

Bridging the amp gives it more headroom (+6dB), not sure if a bridged combo can be bridged as such again though but if so then a GC with enough power to drive an ESL could be created.

That's all I can tell about your GC's, I do not know about other chips (not even sure which chip mine uses!).

Bert

Are these the same speakers I have? If these go that low in impedance then there must be something wrong with your set-up...

Bert

Thanks for the reminder (this IS important!) but how is this done when the signal ground is connected to the mains ground (earth)? Use a socked without earth? How about safety then?

I am asking this because there is a lot of equipment on the market where the signal ground is connected to earth (usually the housing of the equipment which is then connected to the mains earth). Manufacturers do this to bring their own noise down, the most easy way to reduce hum...

The trick above works on equipment that is double isolated (i.e. power cords without earth connection) but how about the other equipment like the NOS1? The NOS1 is connected through earth through the mains cable but also through the DVI-cable passing the PC and then connected to earth again...but also the signal ground is connected to earth?

Peter, why is that? To my idea the signal ground should never be directly connected to the mains ground (earth) in the first place? Mains earth is for safety only...and it is a free ticket for noise present on earth to infiltrate the signal ground, isn't that the problem you have besides the Voltage changes (combined with DC perhaps too)?

Bert

Thanks and no, I do not have those digital voltmeters to adjust myself. Good to know that these are adjustable as my amplifier is DC coupled and more than 10mV is then not desired. Not a problem with my present speakers though (these have somewhere in the path a capacitor anyhow).

I thought the battery was needed for a tweak (making capacitors "active").

Bert

Sorry Peter for being off-topic here (it is of no real use to start a new topic about this)

Hello Praphan,

Thanks for the picture....but what is that battery doing there? 

Bert

A quick format during the installation process will do but before you'll have to delete ALL partitions first (also the small W7 one to be sure).


I do not think that this will help except it will be a whole new one never used before so nothing to remove from it... 

Don't forget any other HDD's within the system with boot sector on them (should not be there either) before you install the OS newly. Just to be sure...

And take out the juli@ card!

Sorry to break in but perhaps (if nothing important is on this PC to keep) you should make a fully new install on the desired disc and format it before installing the OS? No dual boot, no other discs holding any OS but also NO Juli@ card plugged into the MB at the moment and you should be fine...

When the OS is working as it should then plugin the juli@ card and install the drivers.

I have had several issues with changing drives and dual boots and this worked for me without trying to figure out why it doesn't work...

Just start fresh (if you did not try this before) and the ghost will hopefully be crossed over.

Bert

I can do that in 58 seconds and then XX is already waiting for me to take action...I will tweak the PC even further (disable services to start which I do not need) and then it could be 51 seconds as well. In my system a SSD would be a few seconds quicker but I can wait a bit as I do not like the sound of SSD compared to the spinning HDD.

Bert

Thanks, this made me understand better the way this tool works (within XX already implemented). I thought 15ms was high but apparently 0,5ms is higher (resolution, not value) and since I changed from 15 to 0.5ms the sound does improve here...

I will keep it like this for a while, thanks for the "reminder"!

Bert

Indeed, looking much more attractive and real to my eyes. Must sound a lot better too! ;-)

I won't repaint mine (leave it just as it is) but I do not have to look at it all the time soon when it will be fully decoupled "hanging" under my table. Only the front will be visible (if you know where to look).

Bert

I can't find the file anywhere (assuming I have looked everywhere but I have scanned the whole W7 partition using XP...)

I can create it though, make it hidden and find my own created file back whenever I like. When I test XX and use the Alt-U or D in unattended then nothing happens differently than before but the created file has been deleted after stopping XX...and still showing the same error in the log-file (tried visible and hidden)

For the time being I will use Alt-X and set the volume this way and then quit that loaded XX manually as this works “okay”…

Perhaps you could make a tiny stripped version of XX (if possible then quicker loading being less resource greedy) to handle only some controls when playing unattended?

Bert