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Author Topic: 91 | Set up BlueTooth PAN  (Read 11739 times)
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PeterSt
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« on: August 12, 2012, 07:39:01 pm »



Edit May 30, 2015 :
This is about Vista / Windows 7 only. For Windows 8 and up no (worked out) means exist for a Bluetooth PAN (Personal Area Network). It sure can exist though but you'll need to get it going youurself.



Read the below through completely first, before attempting anything !


Notice : This tutorial is for the BlueTooth dongles which were obtained from Phasure (and otherwise can be obtained there). The software drivers for it are provided by email to those who obtained the dongles;
This is explicitly not about any other BlueTooth means; no  other BlueTooth hardware and no any other drivers are supported by this totorial, nor are they in general.

After installing the BlueTooth software (received by email) for the Audio PC, we do the same for the laptop. After this has been done, on the laptop do this  :

(this assumes Windows 7; in Vista it goes a little different, but try to find the screens indicated ... while the screencopies are from Windows 8 ...)


At this stage it is best to have a normal LAN connection available. So, while we are heading for no LAN connections to be present, don't shut them off right now.


Click on the Network icon;

Click Open Network and Sharing Center :


Click Change Adapter Settints (top left) :


This shows up :


Here you see the screen with what we will call the "wide" Network Adapter Icons.
If all is right there will also be a Bluetooth Network Connection Icon like you see it on the left here;
(when not, something must be wrong with the installation of the WidCom software on either side)
Rightclick that Icon and choose View Bluetooth Network Devices like you already see in the picture above.

*If* your Audio PC already shows there, it can be from an earlier situation with different software (drivers) on the laptop. In that case better rightclick the Icon and choose Remove Device first :



Now rightclick on the empty area in the window and choose Add a Bluetooth Device :


Your Audio PC should show :


If it does not, you may not be running the WidCom software on both sides (properly). Notice that the Audio PC should show within a few seconds really. When not, and the status remains "searching" then something really is wrong.

Now we are going to "pair" as how it's called, the laptop with the Audio PC. Notice that in my case this the ST02 you see in the last picture above. It is selected by default, and take care that it remains that when we press the Next button.
This is what you should see :


The number we see here, is the "pairing number" which should be equal to what the PC we connect is going to show for confirmation.

Now it gets a little tricky, because where the laptop says it is trying to connect, at the Audio PC a balloon shows up telling you that a Bluetooth device tries to connect - and clicking the balloon allows that :


You don't have ages the time for this, so be prepared to run back and forth between the two PCs a few times (fast).
Once the ballon has been clicked you will see this, remember, on the Audio PC :


Watch out : the number you see in this screenshot is different from the one the laptop showed in the earlier picture, but they really will be the same in your case. In my case I couldn't manage to make the screencopies on both PCs fast enough to have it all right.
Anyway, you are supposed to answer this with Yes. So, what you are doing is telling the Bluetooth network that the device which tries to connect (which is the laptop) indeed is the one you want to connect.

After your Yes, you will see this :


and numerous "devices" will be installed now, depending on what your laptop can do for Bluetooth (which is a lot of a hell of a lot which is possible). So, this may take a while, and in the background various balloons will show up with new devices and other screens that shows they are successfully added etc.



But don't try to watch it all, because you must rush to the next step. Once you see this screen popping up (on the Audio PC) :


your Laptop was still waiting for the confirmation, and it doesn't do that for ages (60 secs or so). This was about this screen on the laptop we already showed a while back :


Although the Yes button is cut from the screenshot, it is high time to now answer this screen with Yes.

When you were in time, a message will tell you that the device has been added successfully. When not an Authorization error will pop up. But no worries because you just are close to getting the hang of this all, and you can do it again. Just start all over starting at this picture, hence scroll back a little in this guide to find that point :




So you managed eh ? Great work. Fine job.

Keep in mind : the laptop is the originator, and doing this the other way around (start with the Audio PC) does not work.


In the mean time ...
... During the process described below, the (old(der)) laptop may show a screen that tells you that it needs .NET 3.5 which it asks you to download and install.
If this happens you, it is here where the LAN availability comes handy, because the OS will now download that .NET version. When you didn't have the LAN up and running, activating it now most probably doesn't help. So, you must activate it, reboot, and when you after that try to reconnect your Bluetooth device, the process will continue (with that download and install of it).


So, we have our laptop and the audio PC paired. This means that both can find eachother. Now we are going to tell how we are going to use them in their co-orperation. In our case this means that "in a network", for which we just set up all the preparations. This again starts at that "wide" Bluetooth Icons. On that matter :
Get yourself aquainted with the first three screenshots in this chapter, because you will use them often. So, network little icon in the taskbar tray, network sharing center, change adapter settings, and here you are again (and Let's do this on the laptop !) :


There's a red cross in out Bluetooth PAN, meaning that nothing is really active in there yet.

From the above picture we go to the next :


So, we rightclick our bloody added Audio PC and we are going to connect it "Direct". It is important to use a "Direct Connection", especially when more options show, which is possible, like "Access Point". Only the Direct Connection is what we want here, or otherwise we will be having a LAN connection after all.
When all is right a small message will tell you that you've made it again :


And look, out red cross has disappeared :

You could look at the same screen in the Audio PC, and see that there too the red cross has disappeared.

And so we managed our Direct Connection through air. Here you see it's running (second entry) :



You could rightclick on the wide Bluetooth Icon from the picture before and choose Status, and see that a number of packets has been send out. Zero come in yet. You can see the same at either side (Audio PC / Laptop).
No packets come in yet, because we did not establish a "functional" connection. That's to happen in the next chapter.


One more thin for in here :
When either of the PC is rebooted, you have to setup the PAN connection again. This easily goes like this (can be done on either of the PCs) :


Here we clicked the Bluetooth litte icon which in my case is available under the uparrow button in the taskbar tray, and you see the Bluetooth icon just under the R at the bottom in the picture. This brings up the selection you see in above picture, and at choosing Join a Personal Area Network, from there on all is familiar to you by now :


But might you have forgotten it, look back in this paragraph for the same picture. All you need is make that Direct Connection again, and it goes in seconds. No need for Pairing the PCs again, because all still knows it is there and OK.
Remember though that this is a static thing and might you have changed something on the other PC which is important for the connection (a rough example : the other PC is not even On), then it shows that it is there, but it might not be at all, or with the wrong data. This is why we early in this paragraph started with removing it, and adding it again.


Continue with Set up an RDC Connection.
« Last Edit: May 30, 2015, 09:29:55 am by PeterSt » Logged

For the Stealth III LPS PC :
W10-14393.0 - Oct 31, 2018 (2.10)
XXHighEnd Mach III Stealth LPS PC -> Xeon Scalable 14/28 core with Hyperthreading On (set to 10/20 cores) @~660MHz, 48GB, Windows 10 Pro 64 bit build 14393.0 from RAM, music on LAN / Engine#4 Adaptive Mode / Q1/-/3/4/5 = 30/-/1/1/1/ Q1Factor = 10 / Dev.Buffer = 4096 / ClockRes = 15ms / Memory = Straight Contiguous / Include Garbage Collect / SFS = 140.19  (max 140.19) / not Invert / Phase Alignment Off / Playerprio = Low / ThreadPrio = Realtime / Scheme = Core 3-5 / Not Switch Processors during Playback = Off/ Playback Drive none (see OS from RAM) / UnAttended (Just Start) / Always Copy to XX Drive (see OS from RAM) / Stop Desktop, Remaining, WASAPI and W10 services / Use Remote Desktop / Keep LAN - Not Persist / WallPaper On / OSD Off (!) / Running Time Off / Minimize OS / XTweaks : Balanced Load = 35 / Nervous Rate = 10 / Cool when Idle = n.a / Provide Stable Power = 0 / Utilize Cores always = 1 / Time Performance Index = Optimal / Time Stability = Stable / *Arc Prediction Filtering (16x)* / Always Clear Proxy before Playback = On -> USB3 from MoBo -> Lush^2*A:B-W-Y-R, B:B-W-R* USB 1m00 -> Phisolator 24/768 Phasure NOS1a/G3 75B (BNC Out) async USB DAC, Driver v1.0.4b (16ms) -> B'ASS Current Amplifier -> *Blaxius^2 A:B-R, B:B-R* Interlink -> Orelo MKII Active Open Baffle Horn Speakers.
Removed Switching Supplies from everywhere (also from the PC).

For a general PC :
W10-10586.0 - May 2016 (2.05+)
*XXHighEnd PC -> I7 3930k with Hyperthreading On (12 cores)* @~500MHz, 16GB, Windows 10 Pro 64 bit build 10586.0 from RAM, music on LAN / Engine#4 Adaptive Mode / Q1/-/3/4/5 = 14/-/1/1/1 / Q1Factor = 1 / Dev.Buffer = 4096 / ClockRes = 1ms / Memory = Straight Contiguous / Include Garbage Collect / SFS = 0.10  (max 60) / not Invert / Phase Alignment Off / Playerprio = Low / ThreadPrio = Realtime / Scheme = Core 3-5 / Not Switch Processors during Playback = Off/ Playback Drive none (see OS from RAM) / UnAttended (Just Start) / Always Copy to XX Drive (see OS from RAM) / All Services Off / Keep LAN - Not Persist / WallPaper On / OSD On / Running Time Off / Minimize OS / XTweaks : Balanced Load = *43* / Nervous Rate = 1 / Cool when Idle = 1 / Provide Stable Power = 1 / Utilize Cores always = 1 / Time Performance Index = *Optimal* / Time Stability = *Stable* / Custom Filter *Low* 705600 / -> USB3 *from MoBo* -> Clairixa USB 15cm -> Intona Isolator -> Clairixa USB 1m80 -> 24/768 Phasure NOS1a 75B (BNC Out) async USB DAC, Driver v1.0.4b (4ms) -> Blaxius BNC interlink *-> B'ASS Current Amplifier /w Level4 -> Blaxius Interlink* -> Orelo MKII Active Open Baffle Horn Speakers.
Removed Switching Supplies from everywhere.

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