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Author Topic: Sound system chain and ground scheme  (Read 25969 times)
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AlainGr
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« Reply #15 on: September 16, 2013, 04:40:55 pm »

Quote
And yes, a powerbar with the earth pin removed should be handy to use, but I would advise against twisting the pin in all directions when you remove the Earth prong. I did that once and... I had a short circuit... The ground wire inside went loose and touched the hot wire... So if you decide to have such a powerbar, maybe it will not be a bad idea to replace the "head" (the 3 prong connection) with one that you can install yourself, after carefully removing that earth prong. Or at least "cut" the prong, don't twist it... 

Even if you disconnect the earth of the bar at the plug you are not rid of the loops. For that each receptacle in the bar has to be disconnected from the earth.

I made a few cables with the earth wire cut and marked them as such. The powerbar still has earth for the screen of the cable (if present). That would be connected at the powerbar side only.

Regards, Coen
Ah... Of course... Thanks Coen. Will try to find a powerbar that I can open Wink

Regards,

Alain
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PeterSt
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« Reply #16 on: September 16, 2013, 04:42:16 pm »

Btw, in all honesty what I really do with those bars :

I use the larger ones (with 10 outlets) and assumed the cord (inlet) is at the right side, I cut the PE strips at half of the bar, and cut them at each outlet towards the left. Mind the latter, because otherwise the devices can "PE" interconnect again through that strips which btw is again another means to solve problems (but now you get quite many options, so better stay out of that). Anyway, now the left 5 outlets are without PE and the right 5 outlets are with PE (the bar itself just connects to PE).
This is just a robust bar and now I can change things very easily each day if I want (so this is in permanent use).

Need more outlets with/without PE ? then make another such bar, and plug it into one of the rightmost (with PE) outlets of the first one ...
(which is what I indeed use).

Want to change house ring (etc.) ? then put the main cord of the first bar into something else.

The $$ investment for this obviously is "nothing". But the time you gain when you experience problems is sort of infinite.

Peter
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A: W-Y-R-G, B: *W-G* USB 1m00 -> Phisolator 24/768 Phasure NOS1a/G3 75B (BNC Out) async USB DAC, Driver v1.0.4b (16ms) -> B'ASS Current Amplifier -> Blaxius*^2.5* A:B-G, B:B-G Interlink -> Orelo MKII Active Open Baffle Horn Speakers. ET^2 Ethernet from Mach III to Music Server PC (RDC Control).
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PeterSt
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« Reply #17 on: September 16, 2013, 04:45:29 pm »

I now see that Coen again was ahead of me (I did not read carefully) :

Quote
For that each receptacle in the bar has to be disconnected from the earth.

That's what I meant with : when you don't do this, each device will still interconnect through its "PE" means.
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XXHighEnd Mach III Stealth LPS PC -> Xeon Scalable 14/28 core with Hyperthreading On (set to 14/28 cores in BIOS and set to 10/20 cores via Boot Menu) @~660MHz, 48GB, Windows 10 Pro 64 bit build 14393.0 from RAM, music on LAN / Engine#4 Adaptive Mode / Q1/-/3/4/5 = 14/-/0/0/*1*/ Q1Factor = *4* / Dev.Buffer = 4096 / ClockRes = *10ms* / Memory = Straight Contiguous / Include Garbage Collect / SFS = *10.13*  (max 10.13) / not Invert / Phase Alignment Off / Playerprio = Low / ThreadPrio = Realtime / Scheme = Core 3-5 / Not Switch Processors during Playback = Off/ Playback Drive none (see OS from RAM) / UnAttended (Just Start) / Always Copy to XX Drive (see OS from RAM) / Stop Desktop, Remaining, WASAPI and W10 services / Use Remote Desktop / Keep LAN - Not Persist / WallPaper On / OSD Off (!) / Running Time Off / Minimize OS / XTweaks : Balanced Load = *62* / Nervous Rate = *1* / Cool when Idle = n.a / Provide Stable Power = 1 / Utilize Cores always = 1 / Time Performance Index = Optimal / Time Stability = Stable / Custom Filtering *Low* (16x) / Always Clear Proxy before Playback = On -> USB3 from MoBo -> Lush^3
A: W-Y-R-G, B: *W-G* USB 1m00 -> Phisolator 24/768 Phasure NOS1a/G3 75B (BNC Out) async USB DAC, Driver v1.0.4b (16ms) -> B'ASS Current Amplifier -> Blaxius*^2.5* A:B-G, B:B-G Interlink -> Orelo MKII Active Open Baffle Horn Speakers. ET^2 Ethernet from Mach III to Music Server PC (RDC Control).
Removed Switching Supplies from everywhere (also from the PC).

For a general PC :
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CoenP
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« Reply #18 on: September 16, 2013, 05:03:42 pm »

If you are going for the openable powerbar anyway, i think Peters idea is better.

Think of a loop as more than one way current can flow from a to b. If one of these path is long (like via the earth connection), you have a giant antenna for em radiation from mains, mainstransformers and radio, etc. Since the two (note: you can have even more than one extra route) form a triangle or circle or iow loop this em radiation gets into the circuit and make currents run in circles through that loop causing hum, noise etc.

Regards, Coen
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« Reply #19 on: September 16, 2013, 05:30:38 pm »

I find these ideas quite interesting... "To PE" or "Not to PE" is the question Happy

I will go this afternoon look for a good, solid powerbar that I can open. There is still a "grunge" (nothing compared to what I had before) and I suspect it would be between the preamp and amp (on the same Non PE powerbar, but "looping" through interconnects and the ground in the powerbar itself).

Lots of new stuff to test, but this time it will be more fun Happy

Thanks guys !

Alain
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« Reply #20 on: September 17, 2013, 05:14:44 am »

In the continuation of my hunt for noise, I modded a cheap powerbar to separate the ground between the outlets. Quite cheap inside... I will get a better one.

Well what do I know...

First I can now use the NOS1 with no PE...

Second, I can plug the preamp on PE with no difference...

Still the power amp needs to be on no PE. That was quite clear yesterday when I did my test with the 3 different amplifiers I have.

You may ask why I decided to play again with this. Well, I still have a "hum" with some grunge. Nothing to compare with that annoying frequency that I had previously, but still.

It's the 2 subwoofers... 500W class D amp for each. They "leak" in the preamp...

The male IEC receptacle on each of them has only 2 prongs. No PE for them. Yet I tried with a Non PE powerbar, but of course there was no difference. I played with the preamp on PE and Non PE. No difference.

... My quest is not finished...

Alain
« Last Edit: September 19, 2013, 12:53:28 am by AlainGr » Logged

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« Reply #21 on: October 19, 2013, 03:38:06 am »

Well, after playing with the recommended "DAC to power amp", I finally had afterthoughts and decided to bring back the subs that I had removed. That means I had to put back the preamp in the chain too.

Among other things, removing the subs was decided because I could not get rid of a grunge that I could perfectly hear in the main speakers.

I know now that if I put the power amp back on protective earth, this grunge disappears.

So this is the actual status:
- With power amp AC ground lifted I don't have the original ground loop noise, but the subs make noise.
- With power amp AC grounded (normal), I don't have the grunge from the subs, but then the original ground loop comes back.

This is not obvious... unhappy

Alain
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« Reply #22 on: October 19, 2013, 11:40:57 am »

May it help you Alain :

I never ever was able to eliminate the additional HF hash my subs imply. It is the most hard to explain how or what is at work, but say that any "frequency" I can measure as an anomaly in my system, gets worse when subs are on. So I don't see any anomaly from themselves, but I see the others getting worse.
I do know though that my subs create a potential which is not on par with the other gear. So for example, when I try to eliminate their implied anomalies by means of additional ground wires from sub's input ground to cabinet elsewhere etc., the sparkles come from it, and what I recall is that the potential difference is 56V or so. But the sparkles tell that really a lot of current is flowing.

I must say that I didn't work on this anymore for maybe 3 years and I just accepted the fact. Today I maybe could do better on this, but today my subs are out of the system ...

Regards,
Peter
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XXHighEnd Mach III Stealth LPS PC -> Xeon Scalable 14/28 core with Hyperthreading On (set to 14/28 cores in BIOS and set to 10/20 cores via Boot Menu) @~660MHz, 48GB, Windows 10 Pro 64 bit build 14393.0 from RAM, music on LAN / Engine#4 Adaptive Mode / Q1/-/3/4/5 = 14/-/0/0/*1*/ Q1Factor = *4* / Dev.Buffer = 4096 / ClockRes = *10ms* / Memory = Straight Contiguous / Include Garbage Collect / SFS = *10.13*  (max 10.13) / not Invert / Phase Alignment Off / Playerprio = Low / ThreadPrio = Realtime / Scheme = Core 3-5 / Not Switch Processors during Playback = Off/ Playback Drive none (see OS from RAM) / UnAttended (Just Start) / Always Copy to XX Drive (see OS from RAM) / Stop Desktop, Remaining, WASAPI and W10 services / Use Remote Desktop / Keep LAN - Not Persist / WallPaper On / OSD Off (!) / Running Time Off / Minimize OS / XTweaks : Balanced Load = *62* / Nervous Rate = *1* / Cool when Idle = n.a / Provide Stable Power = 1 / Utilize Cores always = 1 / Time Performance Index = Optimal / Time Stability = Stable / Custom Filtering *Low* (16x) / Always Clear Proxy before Playback = On -> USB3 from MoBo -> Lush^3
A: W-Y-R-G, B: *W-G* USB 1m00 -> Phisolator 24/768 Phasure NOS1a/G3 75B (BNC Out) async USB DAC, Driver v1.0.4b (16ms) -> B'ASS Current Amplifier -> Blaxius*^2.5* A:B-G, B:B-G Interlink -> Orelo MKII Active Open Baffle Horn Speakers. ET^2 Ethernet from Mach III to Music Server PC (RDC Control).
Removed Switching Supplies from everywhere (also from the PC).

For a general PC :
W10-10586.0 - May 2016 (2.05+)
*XXHighEnd PC -> I7 3930k with Hyperthreading On (12 cores)* @~500MHz, 16GB, Windows 10 Pro 64 bit build 10586.0 from RAM, music on LAN / Engine#4 Adaptive Mode / Q1/-/3/4/5 = 14/-/1/1/1 / Q1Factor = 1 / Dev.Buffer = 4096 / ClockRes = 1ms / Memory = Straight Contiguous / Include Garbage Collect / SFS = 0.10  (max 60) / not Invert / Phase Alignment Off / Playerprio = Low / ThreadPrio = Realtime / Scheme = Core 3-5 / Not Switch Processors during Playback = Off/ Playback Drive none (see OS from RAM) / UnAttended (Just Start) / Always Copy to XX Drive (see OS from RAM) / All Services Off / Keep LAN - Not Persist / WallPaper On / OSD On / Running Time Off / Minimize OS / XTweaks : Balanced Load = *43* / Nervous Rate = 1 / Cool when Idle = 1 / Provide Stable Power = 1 / Utilize Cores always = 1 / Time Performance Index = *Optimal* / Time Stability = *Stable* / Custom Filter *Low* 705600 / -> USB3 *from MoBo* -> Clairixa USB 15cm -> Intona Isolator -> Clairixa USB 1m80 -> 24/768 Phasure NOS1a 75B (BNC Out) async USB DAC, Driver v1.0.4b (4ms) -> Blaxius BNC interlink *-> B'ASS Current Amplifier /w Level4 -> Blaxius Interlink* -> Orelo MKII Active Open Baffle Horn Speakers.
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AlainGr
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« Reply #23 on: October 19, 2013, 01:08:19 pm »

Sparkles and 56V flowing on the ground... Not a good start... Thanks anyway. I will keep posting as I evolve in this situation.

Strange that they don't carry a ground prong for a IEC receptacle...

Alain


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PeterSt
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« Reply #24 on: October 19, 2013, 02:13:17 pm »

Same with mine ...
(SVS from the US)
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XXHighEnd Mach III Stealth LPS PC -> Xeon Scalable 14/28 core with Hyperthreading On (set to 14/28 cores in BIOS and set to 10/20 cores via Boot Menu) @~660MHz, 48GB, Windows 10 Pro 64 bit build 14393.0 from RAM, music on LAN / Engine#4 Adaptive Mode / Q1/-/3/4/5 = 14/-/0/0/*1*/ Q1Factor = *4* / Dev.Buffer = 4096 / ClockRes = *10ms* / Memory = Straight Contiguous / Include Garbage Collect / SFS = *10.13*  (max 10.13) / not Invert / Phase Alignment Off / Playerprio = Low / ThreadPrio = Realtime / Scheme = Core 3-5 / Not Switch Processors during Playback = Off/ Playback Drive none (see OS from RAM) / UnAttended (Just Start) / Always Copy to XX Drive (see OS from RAM) / Stop Desktop, Remaining, WASAPI and W10 services / Use Remote Desktop / Keep LAN - Not Persist / WallPaper On / OSD Off (!) / Running Time Off / Minimize OS / XTweaks : Balanced Load = *62* / Nervous Rate = *1* / Cool when Idle = n.a / Provide Stable Power = 1 / Utilize Cores always = 1 / Time Performance Index = Optimal / Time Stability = Stable / Custom Filtering *Low* (16x) / Always Clear Proxy before Playback = On -> USB3 from MoBo -> Lush^3
A: W-Y-R-G, B: *W-G* USB 1m00 -> Phisolator 24/768 Phasure NOS1a/G3 75B (BNC Out) async USB DAC, Driver v1.0.4b (16ms) -> B'ASS Current Amplifier -> Blaxius*^2.5* A:B-G, B:B-G Interlink -> Orelo MKII Active Open Baffle Horn Speakers. ET^2 Ethernet from Mach III to Music Server PC (RDC Control).
Removed Switching Supplies from everywhere (also from the PC).

For a general PC :
W10-10586.0 - May 2016 (2.05+)
*XXHighEnd PC -> I7 3930k with Hyperthreading On (12 cores)* @~500MHz, 16GB, Windows 10 Pro 64 bit build 10586.0 from RAM, music on LAN / Engine#4 Adaptive Mode / Q1/-/3/4/5 = 14/-/1/1/1 / Q1Factor = 1 / Dev.Buffer = 4096 / ClockRes = 1ms / Memory = Straight Contiguous / Include Garbage Collect / SFS = 0.10  (max 60) / not Invert / Phase Alignment Off / Playerprio = Low / ThreadPrio = Realtime / Scheme = Core 3-5 / Not Switch Processors during Playback = Off/ Playback Drive none (see OS from RAM) / UnAttended (Just Start) / Always Copy to XX Drive (see OS from RAM) / All Services Off / Keep LAN - Not Persist / WallPaper On / OSD On / Running Time Off / Minimize OS / XTweaks : Balanced Load = *43* / Nervous Rate = 1 / Cool when Idle = 1 / Provide Stable Power = 1 / Utilize Cores always = 1 / Time Performance Index = *Optimal* / Time Stability = *Stable* / Custom Filter *Low* 705600 / -> USB3 *from MoBo* -> Clairixa USB 15cm -> Intona Isolator -> Clairixa USB 1m80 -> 24/768 Phasure NOS1a 75B (BNC Out) async USB DAC, Driver v1.0.4b (4ms) -> Blaxius BNC interlink *-> B'ASS Current Amplifier /w Level4 -> Blaxius Interlink* -> Orelo MKII Active Open Baffle Horn Speakers.
Removed Switching Supplies from everywhere.

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« Reply #25 on: April 11, 2014, 02:04:38 pm »

Something has changed since last time I wrote (October 19, 2013) with that grunge that was generated in my main speakers each time I was turning the subs ON.

For personal reasons I disconnected all my things last February and did not use my speakers and power amplifier until yesterday.

Just to recapitulate:
- I had a ground loop problem last year and the only way I could get rid of it was by lifting the power amp PE.
- But after doing this, another "grunge" noise appeared in the main speakers and to my dismay it was coming from my 2 subs when they were ON.
- Each of these 2 problems was in opposition with the other... Putting back PE on the power amp was removing the noise coming from the subs, but the other ground loop noise was back...

Yesterday (April 10) I reconnected everything together, leaving the power amp PE lifted and... I don't have either noise anymore !!!! Happy

So I wondered what could have changed since the last time
2 things:
- I removed the iFi iUSB powering my external SSD drive because it cannot power a new SSD that I have now. I have put back the wall wart that came with the iUSB power supply.
- I have isolated the Silverstone USB 3 PCIe controller card AND disconnected the NOS1 black wire (http://www.phasure.com/index.php?topic=2838.0)

As for the electrical circuits, they are the exact same as they were before.

So, I am not 100% sure, but if I had a guess to make, I would say that the isolation of the USB connection from the PC chassis and the disconnection of the black wire in the NOS1 could explain this.

I will probably do some tests in the following times, but it sure is a happy conclusion Happy

Alain

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« Reply #26 on: April 11, 2014, 07:12:53 pm »

That is great Alain.

I recall you talked about that iFi's supply before (about trying its wall wart). So apparently you didn't at the time, or I dreamt it ?

Anyway, for all these noise issues I think always any USB connection matters (things just change). So better avoid USB at all ? swoon

Regards,
Peter
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For the Stealth III LPS PC :
W10-14393.0 - July 17, 2021 (2.11)
XXHighEnd Mach III Stealth LPS PC -> Xeon Scalable 14/28 core with Hyperthreading On (set to 14/28 cores in BIOS and set to 10/20 cores via Boot Menu) @~660MHz, 48GB, Windows 10 Pro 64 bit build 14393.0 from RAM, music on LAN / Engine#4 Adaptive Mode / Q1/-/3/4/5 = 14/-/0/0/*1*/ Q1Factor = *4* / Dev.Buffer = 4096 / ClockRes = *10ms* / Memory = Straight Contiguous / Include Garbage Collect / SFS = *10.13*  (max 10.13) / not Invert / Phase Alignment Off / Playerprio = Low / ThreadPrio = Realtime / Scheme = Core 3-5 / Not Switch Processors during Playback = Off/ Playback Drive none (see OS from RAM) / UnAttended (Just Start) / Always Copy to XX Drive (see OS from RAM) / Stop Desktop, Remaining, WASAPI and W10 services / Use Remote Desktop / Keep LAN - Not Persist / WallPaper On / OSD Off (!) / Running Time Off / Minimize OS / XTweaks : Balanced Load = *62* / Nervous Rate = *1* / Cool when Idle = n.a / Provide Stable Power = 1 / Utilize Cores always = 1 / Time Performance Index = Optimal / Time Stability = Stable / Custom Filtering *Low* (16x) / Always Clear Proxy before Playback = On -> USB3 from MoBo -> Lush^3
A: W-Y-R-G, B: *W-G* USB 1m00 -> Phisolator 24/768 Phasure NOS1a/G3 75B (BNC Out) async USB DAC, Driver v1.0.4b (16ms) -> B'ASS Current Amplifier -> Blaxius*^2.5* A:B-G, B:B-G Interlink -> Orelo MKII Active Open Baffle Horn Speakers. ET^2 Ethernet from Mach III to Music Server PC (RDC Control).
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*XXHighEnd PC -> I7 3930k with Hyperthreading On (12 cores)* @~500MHz, 16GB, Windows 10 Pro 64 bit build 10586.0 from RAM, music on LAN / Engine#4 Adaptive Mode / Q1/-/3/4/5 = 14/-/1/1/1 / Q1Factor = 1 / Dev.Buffer = 4096 / ClockRes = 1ms / Memory = Straight Contiguous / Include Garbage Collect / SFS = 0.10  (max 60) / not Invert / Phase Alignment Off / Playerprio = Low / ThreadPrio = Realtime / Scheme = Core 3-5 / Not Switch Processors during Playback = Off/ Playback Drive none (see OS from RAM) / UnAttended (Just Start) / Always Copy to XX Drive (see OS from RAM) / All Services Off / Keep LAN - Not Persist / WallPaper On / OSD On / Running Time Off / Minimize OS / XTweaks : Balanced Load = *43* / Nervous Rate = 1 / Cool when Idle = 1 / Provide Stable Power = 1 / Utilize Cores always = 1 / Time Performance Index = *Optimal* / Time Stability = *Stable* / Custom Filter *Low* 705600 / -> USB3 *from MoBo* -> Clairixa USB 15cm -> Intona Isolator -> Clairixa USB 1m80 -> 24/768 Phasure NOS1a 75B (BNC Out) async USB DAC, Driver v1.0.4b (4ms) -> Blaxius BNC interlink *-> B'ASS Current Amplifier /w Level4 -> Blaxius Interlink* -> Orelo MKII Active Open Baffle Horn Speakers.
Removed Switching Supplies from everywhere.

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« Reply #27 on: April 12, 2014, 04:34:35 pm »

Peter,

Ah ! I stand corrected... I wrongly stated that I switched back to the iFi iUSB wall wart, but that's not correct.

I switched back to the wall wart that came with the external enclosure, not the iUSB. The iUSB does not work with the external enclosure anymore. I can't explain why it is so, since the SSD drive is told to use 195mW of power when active, while the iUSB can deliver 5 watts (5V x 1A). Maybe the enclosure itself takes more power than one would expect, but the result is that there is not enough current to power the SSD. Maybe the explanation lies elsewhere, but I can't wrap my head around this...

Regards,

Alain
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