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Author Topic: IEC plug on NOS1: where is the live line as opposed to the neutral one ?  (Read 7198 times)
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AlainGr
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« on: April 20, 2014, 06:53:09 pm »

Hi Peter,

I never really cared to ask this, but I tend to overlook this question... I found two pictures showing from what slot the live voltage is supposed to be here in Canada (and I believe it is the same in US)...

The 2 pictures that you can see are showing where the live current is located (which prong) as opposed to the neutral one.

I think it could be interesting for each of us to tell where the current flows as opposed to the neutral - this on a cable with the appropriate connection for the socket wall on one extremity and the IEC side (Is it the same for all ?).

So I will start...
Here in Canada, this is how it is done...

Alain
 


* AC_plug_IEC_connector.jpg (151.41 KB, 536x479 - viewed 950 times.)

* american-socket.jpg (49.45 KB, 386x349 - viewed 478 times.)
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PeterSt
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« Reply #1 on: April 20, 2014, 07:33:06 pm »

Well Alain ... Possibly this is the nicest question of 2014 so far. What about "I can not tell" eh ? So for once you have such an answer from me. Thus also very nice.

dntknw dntknw dntknw

So what's up ?
Over here it depends on how you plug the plug in the wall. See picture below;

You can see that this plug can be put in eithet (180 degree) side. And there is really NO means to determine here for us how it should be done the best, other than measuring the least current flowing between devices (we have beepers for that but it can just be measured with actually a volt meter).
So, do the one device such and the other device so and ...

And then we still don't know because now it depends on how the device is wired (so you question).

For this reason I actually never in my life thought about this while I can imagine that it matters for the absolute best connection; we just twist the plug, while you can not do that.
So you see, it is just no "question" over here. And yes, I now wonder whether other manufacturers ever think about this.

Anyway, all I can tell is that each NOS1 will be wired exactly the same regarding this, but that won't help you much. So ... I just made a photo to show it, and I attached it below anyway, but it is of now use because ...

Well, because "how are the wires connect to your wall outlet ?"

So yes, you can still switch those red and white wires you see in the bottom picture and try, but it still won't lead to a general rule for everybody (who can not twist the plug in the wall).

What you could do - and I would do that - is make an extension block with these euro connections. Plus euro cables (see first picture). Then you can switch everything for the better/best.

So you know, over here we actually have this dimension of trying (what sounds best or is best) while you are stuck without even knowing about the phenomenon.

That's it. Happy
Peter


* EuroPlug01.jpg (25.34 KB, 518x399 - viewed 434 times.)

* IMG_0965a.JPG (57.54 KB, 300x200 - viewed 393 times.)
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AlainGr
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« Reply #2 on: April 20, 2014, 07:49:48 pm »

Peter,

Well yes, I know we are stuck with this here (cannot do 180 degree swap easily)... I was hoping there was some kind of official (or unofficial) guidelines that was written by an association of some kind... Lots of "some kind" eh...

I just know that for some appliances it does not matter, but for others it could (light bulb, switches that should either "cut" the live and neutral, or at least the live, not only the neutral), etc...

Things can look so much "acquired" but they are not...

I hope that you did the test while you have the chance to do so Happy

Alain
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AlainGr
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« Reply #3 on: April 20, 2014, 07:55:11 pm »

Ah... I see that from the parameters I found (that I could corroborate by testing my cables), the current arrives in the white wire from the picture you provided with the NOS1... Isn't normally the red wire the one from which the current is supposed to arrive ?

Sorry if I did not react to this in my first reply...

Alain
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PeterSt
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« Reply #4 on: April 20, 2014, 08:01:46 pm »

Uhm Alain, now that is a strange question. Red and white is just that so it is not both red or both white or both brown etc.
We can not tell the difference anyway. We twist the plug.
Try to envision : because it is so as it is it won't even be in schollbooks here (I think !).

Peter
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For the Stealth III LPS PC :
W10-14393.0 - Oct 31, 2018 (2.10)
XXHighEnd Mach III Stealth LPS PC -> Xeon Scalable 14/28 core with Hyperthreading On (set to 10/20 cores) @~660MHz, 48GB, Windows 10 Pro 64 bit build 14393.0 from RAM, music on LAN / Engine#4 Adaptive Mode / Q1/-/3/4/5 = 30/-/1/1/1/ Q1Factor = 10 / Dev.Buffer = 4096 / ClockRes = 15ms / Memory = Straight Contiguous / Include Garbage Collect / SFS = 140.19  (max 140.19) / not Invert / Phase Alignment Off / Playerprio = Low / ThreadPrio = Realtime / Scheme = Core 3-5 / Not Switch Processors during Playback = Off/ Playback Drive none (see OS from RAM) / UnAttended (Just Start) / Always Copy to XX Drive (see OS from RAM) / Stop Desktop, Remaining, WASAPI and W10 services / Use Remote Desktop / Keep LAN - Not Persist / WallPaper On / OSD Off (!) / Running Time Off / Minimize OS / XTweaks : Balanced Load = 35 / Nervous Rate = 10 / Cool when Idle = n.a / Provide Stable Power = 0 / Utilize Cores always = 1 / Time Performance Index = Optimal / Time Stability = Stable / *Arc Prediction Filtering (16x)* / Always Clear Proxy before Playback = On -> USB3 from MoBo -> Lush^2*A:B-W-Y-R, B:B-W-R* USB 1m00 -> Phisolator 24/768 Phasure NOS1a/G3 75B (BNC Out) async USB DAC, Driver v1.0.4b (16ms) -> B'ASS Current Amplifier -> *Blaxius^2 A:B-R, B:B-R* Interlink -> Orelo MKII Active Open Baffle Horn Speakers.
Removed Switching Supplies from everywhere (also from the PC).

For a general PC :
W10-10586.0 - May 2016 (2.05+)
*XXHighEnd PC -> I7 3930k with Hyperthreading On (12 cores)* @~500MHz, 16GB, Windows 10 Pro 64 bit build 10586.0 from RAM, music on LAN / Engine#4 Adaptive Mode / Q1/-/3/4/5 = 14/-/1/1/1 / Q1Factor = 1 / Dev.Buffer = 4096 / ClockRes = 1ms / Memory = Straight Contiguous / Include Garbage Collect / SFS = 0.10  (max 60) / not Invert / Phase Alignment Off / Playerprio = Low / ThreadPrio = Realtime / Scheme = Core 3-5 / Not Switch Processors during Playback = Off/ Playback Drive none (see OS from RAM) / UnAttended (Just Start) / Always Copy to XX Drive (see OS from RAM) / All Services Off / Keep LAN - Not Persist / WallPaper On / OSD On / Running Time Off / Minimize OS / XTweaks : Balanced Load = *43* / Nervous Rate = 1 / Cool when Idle = 1 / Provide Stable Power = 1 / Utilize Cores always = 1 / Time Performance Index = *Optimal* / Time Stability = *Stable* / Custom Filter *Low* 705600 / -> USB3 *from MoBo* -> Clairixa USB 15cm -> Intona Isolator -> Clairixa USB 1m80 -> 24/768 Phasure NOS1a 75B (BNC Out) async USB DAC, Driver v1.0.4b (4ms) -> Blaxius BNC interlink *-> B'ASS Current Amplifier /w Level4 -> Blaxius Interlink* -> Orelo MKII Active Open Baffle Horn Speakers.
Removed Switching Supplies from everywhere.

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AlainGr
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« Reply #5 on: April 20, 2014, 09:54:12 pm »

Ah... My knowledge about electricity is quite limited... Let's say for instance that the current arrives in the power supply... The neutral should be at the other end, where it leaves... If the travel is done in reverse ?

Guess I am just showing my ignorance here...

I'll do some searching and hope to bring back some answers... Or more questions...

Alain
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« Reply #6 on: April 20, 2014, 11:24:55 pm »

Here is an article in the Stereophile

http://www.stereophile.com/content/non-tweakers-guide-tweaks-page-3

see "System Tweaks".

At some units the "hot wire" is marked at the power inlet socket.

Joachim
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AlainGr
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« Reply #7 on: April 21, 2014, 05:28:24 am »

Thanks Joachim. Finally I read all the article Happy It is interesting and easy to follow. I will try what he suggests about the chassis voltage just to see where it leads me Happy

Regards,

Alain
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