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Author Topic: Battery power  (Read 6734 times)
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Chris V
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« on: October 24, 2015, 10:47:21 am »

I have a couple of bits of kit like a DAC that run on 12 volt 'Wallmart' power supplies, but have very low power demands.

These power supplies seem also to be the switching type which get a worse press than the linear.

So I fancy going to battery power using say a rechargeable 7amp lead acid battery.

Here is my initial problem.

The power supplies deliver 12 volts but batteries normally deliver about 13 volts. Is this going to damage the DAC if so do I need to put a voltage regulator in the system?
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Music on external hard drive with own power supply. Brains of the system is a Raspberry Pi running Moode Audio. The RPI has dedicated Longdog audio linear power supply.
Signal passes first to SW1X Signature USB to SPDIF  converter
Then to SW1X Signature DAC
Then to Stevens and Billington TVC
Then to modified vintage triode amplifier
Then to open baffle speakers with vintage alnico drivers. Grundig tweeter, Saba Greencone midrange, Altec 416 VOTT base.
Everything is silver wired including mains and speaker cables
PeterSt
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« Reply #1 on: October 24, 2015, 11:21:53 am »

Hey Chris,

I don't think anything can be in there that does not allow the 13V. However, no guarantee of course. What you can anyway do, is get youself a infrared temperature meter, measure the heat of the components inside before the battery appliance, and do the same afterwards. If there's a component (chip) that is rather hot before the change, it could be a regulator (for e.g. 5V) and that one could now get too hot when it is fed with 13V instead of 12V.
Don't ask me what s "too hot" because it depends on the component. Also, I don't like 40C already (while 100++ is easily allowed for most components).

Do not make the mistake that you (later) think that for 16V and 17V counts the same, because that certainly won't be true. Or more in battery-realm : 24V and 26V. That too has fair chance of going wrong (think of existing (possible) capacitor voltages).

Good luck !
Peter
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For the Stealth III LPS PC :
W10-14393.0 - July 17, 2021 (2.11)
XXHighEnd Mach III Stealth LPS PC -> Xeon Scalable 14/28 core with Hyperthreading On (set to 14/28 cores in BIOS and set to 10/20 cores via Boot Menu) @~660MHz, 48GB, Windows 10 Pro 64 bit build 14393.0 from RAM, music on LAN / Engine#4 Adaptive Mode / Q1/-/3/4/5 = 14/-/0/0/*1*/ Q1Factor = *4* / Dev.Buffer = 4096 / ClockRes = *10ms* / Memory = Straight Contiguous / Include Garbage Collect / SFS = *10.13*  (max 10.13) / not Invert / Phase Alignment Off / Playerprio = Low / ThreadPrio = Realtime / Scheme = Core 3-5 / Not Switch Processors during Playback = Off/ Playback Drive none (see OS from RAM) / UnAttended (Just Start) / Always Copy to XX Drive (see OS from RAM) / Stop Desktop, Remaining, WASAPI and W10 services / Use Remote Desktop / Keep LAN - Not Persist / WallPaper On / OSD Off (!) / Running Time Off / Minimize OS / XTweaks : Balanced Load = *62* / Nervous Rate = *1* / Cool when Idle = n.a / Provide Stable Power = 1 / Utilize Cores always = 1 / Time Performance Index = Optimal / Time Stability = Stable / Custom Filtering *Low* (16x) / Always Clear Proxy before Playback = On -> USB3 from MoBo -> Lush^3
A: W-Y-R-G, B: *W-G* USB 1m00 -> Phisolator 24/768 Phasure NOS1a/G3 75B (BNC Out) async USB DAC, Driver v1.0.4b (16ms) -> B'ASS Current Amplifier -> Blaxius*^2.5* A:B-G, B:B-G Interlink -> Orelo MKII Active Open Baffle Horn Speakers. ET^2 Ethernet from Mach III to Music Server PC (RDC Control).
Removed Switching Supplies from everywhere (also from the PC).

For a general PC :
W10-10586.0 - May 2016 (2.05+)
*XXHighEnd PC -> I7 3930k with Hyperthreading On (12 cores)* @~500MHz, 16GB, Windows 10 Pro 64 bit build 10586.0 from RAM, music on LAN / Engine#4 Adaptive Mode / Q1/-/3/4/5 = 14/-/1/1/1 / Q1Factor = 1 / Dev.Buffer = 4096 / ClockRes = 1ms / Memory = Straight Contiguous / Include Garbage Collect / SFS = 0.10  (max 60) / not Invert / Phase Alignment Off / Playerprio = Low / ThreadPrio = Realtime / Scheme = Core 3-5 / Not Switch Processors during Playback = Off/ Playback Drive none (see OS from RAM) / UnAttended (Just Start) / Always Copy to XX Drive (see OS from RAM) / All Services Off / Keep LAN - Not Persist / WallPaper On / OSD On / Running Time Off / Minimize OS / XTweaks : Balanced Load = *43* / Nervous Rate = 1 / Cool when Idle = 1 / Provide Stable Power = 1 / Utilize Cores always = 1 / Time Performance Index = *Optimal* / Time Stability = *Stable* / Custom Filter *Low* 705600 / -> USB3 *from MoBo* -> Clairixa USB 15cm -> Intona Isolator -> Clairixa USB 1m80 -> 24/768 Phasure NOS1a 75B (BNC Out) async USB DAC, Driver v1.0.4b (4ms) -> Blaxius BNC interlink *-> B'ASS Current Amplifier /w Level4 -> Blaxius Interlink* -> Orelo MKII Active Open Baffle Horn Speakers.
Removed Switching Supplies from everywhere.

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CoenP
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« Reply #2 on: October 24, 2015, 12:11:03 pm »

I have a couple of bits of kit like a DAC that run on 12 volt 'Wallmart' power supplies, but have very low power demands.

These power supplies seem also to be the switching type which get a worse press than the linear.

So I fancy going to battery power using say a rechargeable 7amp lead acid battery.

Here is my initial problem.

The power supplies deliver 12 volts but batteries normally deliver about 13 volts. Is this going to damage the DAC if so do I need to put a voltage regulator in the system?

Hi Chris,

A few words to set the expectations.
Lead acid is in principle a bad idea for audio. Its discharge is very noisy. Maybe there are specific implementations with low noise, but for the usual purposes this is not a requirement.
Also the voltage reduces during discharge, you will only hit the design or optimum voltage (and related circuit optimization) only for a very brief moment. Expect your sound quality to drift.
You could use the batteries with a wide input DC-DC converter, but then you re on the switching path again (which is not bad per se).

I would recommend a good linear supply, which should not be so hard to find for 12V.

regards, Coen
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Settings: Qn: , SFS: , timeres: XT tweaks: , buf: 4096, driver: 8 ms,

Audio PC (jan 19): XXHE PC v1 with RAMdisk w.o. videocard and 1 of 2 cpu fans + BRIX/USB3 storage musicserver. ETN to Fibre converters (linear supplies), 500m SFP modules & 5m OM4 cable. Power cable PE not connected, together with nos1 and poweramp in separate "audio" powerstrip.

Clarixa set + Intona (or Lush 1m), Phasure NOS1a-75B G3 USB (buf 16 ms)-> Blaxius ->SE EL95 (0,8W triode) + cheap link to Abaqus 300W plateamps> Bastanis cable-> Bastanis Sagarmatha Duo ("DIY").

[other sources: TD124/3009SII-i/Grace F9/lounge LCR phono; Rega Planet 1997 vintage]
Chris V
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« Reply #3 on: October 24, 2015, 12:23:18 pm »

Thanks guys for the prompt responses.

I have read that different batteries 'sound' different, and there are other rechargeable alternatives including Ni Cad and lithium phosphate. Would these be a better choice?

Scientifically its an interesting finding that a lead acid battery sounds noisy, as its just a chemical reaction, but I guess it might be the ever changing formation of hydrogen bubbles on the plates that causes variability.

Peter, I like the IR temp sensor idea - its another toy to play with Happy

Coen, if you wouldn't mind I would like the name of that 12 volt linear supply as a fall back measure.

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Music on external hard drive with own power supply. Brains of the system is a Raspberry Pi running Moode Audio. The RPI has dedicated Longdog audio linear power supply.
Signal passes first to SW1X Signature USB to SPDIF  converter
Then to SW1X Signature DAC
Then to Stevens and Billington TVC
Then to modified vintage triode amplifier
Then to open baffle speakers with vintage alnico drivers. Grundig tweeter, Saba Greencone midrange, Altec 416 VOTT base.
Everything is silver wired including mains and speaker cables
CoenP
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« Reply #4 on: October 24, 2015, 03:20:14 pm »

Hi Chris,

something like this could work:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TALEMA-25VA-Linear-Power-supply-DC5V-DC9V-DC12V-DC15V-PSU-for-choose-L154-22-/121643341873

Must be many more offerings cheaper and more expensive.

I've got the HDPLEX 100W (VA) unit for my PC, which also has a fixed 12V out (and also a 19V for the laptop). That unit is somewhat more expensive of course.


regards, Coen
Logged

Settings: Qn: , SFS: , timeres: XT tweaks: , buf: 4096, driver: 8 ms,

Audio PC (jan 19): XXHE PC v1 with RAMdisk w.o. videocard and 1 of 2 cpu fans + BRIX/USB3 storage musicserver. ETN to Fibre converters (linear supplies), 500m SFP modules & 5m OM4 cable. Power cable PE not connected, together with nos1 and poweramp in separate "audio" powerstrip.

Clarixa set + Intona (or Lush 1m), Phasure NOS1a-75B G3 USB (buf 16 ms)-> Blaxius ->SE EL95 (0,8W triode) + cheap link to Abaqus 300W plateamps> Bastanis cable-> Bastanis Sagarmatha Duo ("DIY").

[other sources: TD124/3009SII-i/Grace F9/lounge LCR phono; Rega Planet 1997 vintage]
Chris V
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« Reply #5 on: October 25, 2015, 08:56:07 am »

Thanks Coen, that model on Ebay looks good and has had a good review.  good
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Music on external hard drive with own power supply. Brains of the system is a Raspberry Pi running Moode Audio. The RPI has dedicated Longdog audio linear power supply.
Signal passes first to SW1X Signature USB to SPDIF  converter
Then to SW1X Signature DAC
Then to Stevens and Billington TVC
Then to modified vintage triode amplifier
Then to open baffle speakers with vintage alnico drivers. Grundig tweeter, Saba Greencone midrange, Altec 416 VOTT base.
Everything is silver wired including mains and speaker cables
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