HOW I´VE BUILT MY NEW PC FOR XXHIGHEND AND WHY I´VE CHOSEN THE COMPONENTS

[juanpmar]

For the ones that are consulting this post let me tell you that, as we all know, computers and its parts become obsolete very soon, so it is important to understand that you should choose to build your music PC, as a general rule, the fastest possible processor¹, with as much as possible cores and with a motherboard appropriate for that processor. Consult on this regard the signatures of other members of the forum (mostly the ones with more posts and of course of Peter). It doesn´t mean that you must choose the latest processor in the market, but one of the previous ones that will be much cheaper and for sure with enough power to work well. E.g. I´m still using today (April/2013) the processor you can see below and be sure that if it wouldn´t work well I´d change it. Of course if I´d build my computer today I´d choose a faster processor but, as I say, not the last model, just to save some money (unless of course money is not a problem for you).
On the other components, and in general for all that follows, I think the comments and recommendations are still valid.

¹ About the processor speed Peter made an observation (April 24, 2013): "Generally it is not about the speed at all but how the processor can (quickly) deal with interrupts, memory and a lot more. For example, currently I run my i7/3930K machine at 350MHz per core (yep, that is 0.35GHz). No problem whatsoever with anything (also not track loading and FLAC conversions etc.). CPU usage during 32/705600 playback is still under 1%."



After more than one month and a half looking for parts, reading as much as possible, finding the best places to buy, connecting with the right person to put all the parts together and also learning how to do it myself, I´ve finished my new PC. Now I´d like to show it to you all in the easiest possible way and mentioning just the most important issues.
This is a "Why? and because" little guide about why I´ve chosen some parts and not others in order to build the PC. I hope it can help some of you interested in building a computer for XXHighEnd.
I´ve had in to consideration the advises that some of you gave me to start with it. They all were important because I came from the audiophile world but knew only the usual things about computers, so thanks to Gerard, Paphran, Telstar, Mani, Pedal …and of course to Peter.
As I said in other thread I´ve built this PC with the intention of being adapted as much as possible to the evolution of XXHighEnd and in my case to work also in combination with the Phasure NOS1 dac. Of course this PC is also valid for the use in combination to other dacs maybe with just some specific adaptation.
A few premises were important. One of them was that it had to be as silent as possible because it was going to be in my listening room. Silent yes, but not totally passive due to the possible limitations of a passive PC (Peter´s advise) and I didn´t wanted to take the route of water cooling.

Let´s start with the Operating System. Here it seems that the general opinion is favorable to Windows 7 Ultimate 64bits. The 64bits option has not limited the amount of memory to 4Gb and that is an advantage over the 32bits version, mostly if we´re talking about XXHigEnd that is played from the memory.

Update
(June 2013) Now I´m using Windows 8 Pro as OS. It sounds even better than W7

-Operating System: W8 Pro: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Microsoft-Windows-Professional-FQC-05955-English/dp/B009HI3WOC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1370170301&sr=8-2&keywords=Windows+8+Pro
W7: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/products/compare

UPDATE
(2016): I use W10 in the Audio Pc since Peter uses it in XXHighEnd (RAM OS). I also use W10 in the Music Server Pc (Music Pc).


The processor. Peter is moving toward the multi core processors, hyperthreading or even, who knows, overclocking, so I´ve had to chose between the two main options: Dual processors like Xeon or a single one with multi-core. At the end I took the route of the single one because 12 cores seem to be enough for the next XX development without the disadvantages of a Dual processor size and the problem to refrigerate two processors on the same motherboard. So once I´ve decided to get one single processor I´ve selected  the 1366 because  the Sandy Bridges processors, socket 1155, besides they have just 4 cores it seems to have had some problems with  SATA ports:  http://www.techradar.com/news/computing-components/motherboards/intel-sandy-bridge-problem-why-it-s-bad-news-925242
The 1156 could be also a good option mostly for the price but they also have just 4 cores. At the end I took the one with the best possible quality/price ratio: the i7-970 based on socket 1366 with 6 cores. For less than 500€ you get 6 cores and the possibility to 12 threats or 6 cores plus 6 "virtual" cores. It can be easily overclocked to get the 980X level , this last one priced at this time around 1.000€. So:

-Processor: Intel i7-970: http://ark.intel.com/Product.aspx?id=47933

 
The motherboard. I need a mb with a CPU suitable for the i7-970 with 1366 socket and at least one PCIe x1 slot to connect the Phasure NOS-1. Not all the modern mb has it. I also looked for a mb with good quality parts and stability, of course there are several good mbs around  but I´ve chosen the Asus Sabertooth X58 because it has some quality parts that I liked, like special capacitors, chokes and mosfets. It has enough SATA ports and can take as much as 24Gb DDR3 triple channel memory.

- Mother board: Asus Sabertooth X58:http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1366/SABERTOOTH_X58/

 
CPU Cooler. I looked for a way to cool it as silent as possible. As I said the use of water cooling made me kind of insecure so I got a good fan system: the Noctua NH-U12P SE2. Why this Noctua?, because it has good fans, it´s a quiet unit and it´s very versatile. It has two 12mm fans, one at each side of the heatsink, this way you can use one or two fans depending on your needs. This fan uses a way to control the speed that´s called Low-Noise Adaptor  (L.N.A) and Ultra-Low-Noise-Adaptor (U.L.N.A.), depending on the reduction of the fan speed. The adaptor reduce the voltage to a fixed value and that way the rpm. You could think that would be better to control the fan´s speed by the motherboard using PWM (Pulse-width modulation), the PWM makes the fan speed variable but also produces RFI interferences and that´s not good at all for sound. I use just one fan and the ULNA to get 900rpm and 12,6db. So again true silent and between 35ºC and 45ºC in the CPU, not bad at all!.

- CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12P SE2: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=31&lng=en&set=2

UPDATE
(May 2016): I´ve changed the CPU fan, now I use a Noctua NF-S12A (600rpm/6.7db) ant it´s the only one fan in the Audio Pc.


The memory.  As “XXHighEnd is a so called memory player, which means that all is played directly from memory”(1) this is an important component. My motherboard accept a ma ximum of 24Gb of DDR3 triple channel of memory. That means that I could put 12Gb or 24Gb if I want to get the maximum benefits of it, at this moment I´m using 12Gb but probably I´ll upgrade very soon to 24Gb, this extra 12GB will cost around 130€ at this moment  but I think  that´s a good price for that amount of memory. In general  and talking about memory the more the better, it´s even more important the amount than the speed of the memory, so if you have to choose between more memory or  faster memory choose always more amount of memory. Corsair Vengeace is a good option and it also has aluminum heat spreaders to dissipate heat.

UPDATE
(Feb 2012): I´m using now 24Gb of memory and it works great!

- Memory:  Corsair Vengeance PC3-12800 DDR3 1600 24GB 6x4Gb:http://www.corsair.com/memory/vengeance/vengeance-12gb-triple-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmz12gx3m3a1600c9.html

 
HDDs. The OS and XXHighEnd must be in the same unit and the data in a different one, that way we need at least two hard drives. Of course you may need more HDDs depending on the amount of music you have. As discussed in the forum, the OS and XXHighEnd has been tested on different kinds of storage units like SSD or in RAMDisk but the latest tendencies seems to consider that the best sound comes from an HDD spinning disc and not using RAMDisk. Speed is important so I´ve chosen for the OS and XXHighEnd a 300GB WD VelociRaptor Sata 3Gb/s 16Mb of caché spinning at 10.000rpm. This HDD is quite silent in spite of its speed, think also that once the music is in the memory all the HDDs stops, if you use Unattended and Stop the Services in XXHighEnd.
For data I used a WD Caviar Green 2TB Sata 3Gb/s 64Mb. Cool and quiet. As a backup hdd I use an external WD 2Tb disk.

- HDD for OS and XXHighEndd:  WD VelociRaptor 300GB Sata 3Gb/s   http://www.wdc.com/wdproducts/library/SpecSheet/ENG/2879-701284.pdf
- HDD for Data: WD Green http://www.wdc.com/en/products/products.aspx?id=780
- SSD for Galleries or for OS and XXHighEnd: Crucial M4 128gb ssd sata3. http://www.crucial.com/store/m4ProductFlyer.aspx
- HDD for Playback Drive: I use now for Playback Drive a WD RE4 WD5003ABYX, 500Gb, 7200rpm, 64Mb cache, externally powered. That´s a fantastic hdd that makes a clear, detailed and very musical sound. I connect it directly to the TeckNet USB 3.0 PCI Express Card.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136697

UPDATE
(October 2012): I put all my Galleries in a SSD drive which makes all the process much faster.

UPDATE
(December 2012): I added a new hdd for music storage, the WD20EFRX http://www.wdc.com/wdproducts/library/SpecSheet/ENG/2879-771442.pdf

UPDATE
(June 2013): Now I don´t use the Playback Drive in a hdd but in Ramdisk and I use the WD RE4 to put in a selection of my music and I placed this hdd in an external USB 3.0 box

UPDATE
(August 2013): Now I don´t use Galleries in W8 and I use the SSD to place in it the OS and XXHighEnd connected to an eSata port. I do not know yet if this will be final, I´m testing it.

UPDATE
(June 2016): Now I don´t use any hdd inside the Audio Pc. I use the RAM-Disk OS provided by Peter with the different Windows OS and XXHE versions and this is a great advance in confort and easy of use because I also have at the same time the best (Peter´s) settings.

Graphics Card. I wanted a passive Graphics Card if possible, I know that the graphics cards usually have little fans that at the end are noisy. Again I know that I don´t need a big monster but I didn´t want either a weak one.  I looked for the most powerful passive one and I´ve found the Radeon HD 5770 Passive. Of course 0 noise.

- Graphic Card:  Gigabyte Radeon GV-R577SL-1GD : http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3584#ov
UPDATE
(May 2016): Since I´m using a Music Pc to serve the music to the Audio Pc and Remote Desktop I don´t use a Graphic Card in the Audio Pc.


PSU (Power Supply Unit): Peter says that  around 400W is more than enough for a PC just for music and he´s right but what about the future unknown upgrades? and most of all, the Corsair AX750 Modular PSU that I´ve chosen use a fan that only works when the power needed exceeds the 20% of its rated power. That means that only when we need more than 150W the fan is working. To tell you the truth I can´t say if it´s working or not because I can´t tell any movement of air coming out of the PSU nor hear anything. Besides it´s modular, that means that I only use the cables I need and that´s good because I have more free room without obstacles for ventilation. Finally it´s very efficient,  80 Plus Gold certified,  and has 7 years warranty. Great PSU!

- PSU:  Corsair AX750 750W Modular: www.corsair.com/power-supplies/modular-psus/professional-series-gold-2/ax750w.html

- PSU:  Seasonic SS-400FL fanless: www.seasonicusa.com/Platinum_Series_FL2.htm

UPDATE
(August 2013): I have the fanless Seasonic SS-400FL2 installed now in my music pc. The first impression was of a more detailed sound than with the AX750, but after that first moments I realized that the differences, in my system, are minor if any. At the end what´s my opinion about these two ps?, well, if I´d have to buy a new ps I´ll buy the Seasonic, but if I´d have a Corsair AX-750 and it was working well (as was my case) I´ll keep the Corsair. Now that I have both ps I´ll keep using the Seasonic, it is not worse than the Corsair in any case and it seems to have better components. On the other hand the Corsair is enough powerful to don´t use the fan, in fact when I removed the Corsair from the case after more than two years of continue use the fan was absolutely clean, no dust at all, it means that the fan wasn´t used at all or seldom used. So if for some reason you want to have a more powerful ps than the fanless Seasonic I think the Corsair is still a good choice.


CD-Rom
UPDATE
(Feb.2012): I´m using now two CD-Rom: Plextor PX-230A and Plextor PX-L890SA. The first one is very fast and very good ripping cds with some problems (scratches) and the second one has FUA capability: Clear Read Cache with FUA (dBpoweramp Reference required) quickly remove the cached audio using a command called FUA. Important to avoid ripping errors.

UPDATE
(May 2013) When I´l listening music I disconnect the CD-ROMs for better SQ (Sound Quality), they are only connected if I want to rip a cd but usually I do it in another computer and copy the files to a pen-drive.



Accesories:

UPDATE
(October 2012): To avoid the vibrations in the Playback Drive I use a HDD Vibe-Fixer from Sharkoon, but I don´t use it with the bare hdd but with the hdd inside an aluminum case (you can see some pic. in other post in this same topic): http://www.amazon.de/Sharkoon-Hdd-Vibe-Fixer-Festplatten-Einbaurahmen-Entkopplung-Festplatten/dp/B000FLR8PE

(October 2012): To use the internal hard drives in an external way I place them in a TooQ TQE-3523G USB 3.0 case: http://www.tooq.es/product_detail.php?id=1463. In case you can´t find it in your country any other case with USB 3.0 will be fine. Eg: Akasa cases or some others:
http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=product/product.list.tpl&type=Enclosures&type_sub=3.5%20Enclosure
http://www.amazon.co.uk/IT735U3--SATA-External-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B004LO59MK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1351620609&sr=8-1.
Important: Not all the external USB 3.0 cases work correctly, so buy one that you can return in case it fails.

Powered hub
[url=http://www.orico.com.cn/en/ProductInfo.aspx?typeid=62&id=541]http://www.orico.com.cn/en/ProductInfo.aspx?typeid=62&id=541]http://www.orico.com.cn/en/ProductInfo.aspx?typeid=62&id=541
Another interesting USB3.0 hub that also can power your iPad is this one: http://www.sednacomputer.com/products/se-usb3-hub-317i.html. You can use it to connect your external hdds with music files.

 
Case: Here I wanted something that last forever (or almost) and with good possibilities of evolution. Of course I need a case with very good ventilation and room enough to accommodate easily the parts. I addressed several different objectives:

  -Possibility to keep all the cables out of the air path
  -Big fans to allow low rpm for less noise
  -The most favorable orientation of the parts to pick all the possible air flux in order to get the most of the ventilation
  -Again, as silent as possible fans that could be regulated without PWM (remember, RFI interferences)
  -Good dust maintenance
  -Nice looking, not the most important issue but better if you get it, isn´t it?

Well, there is one case that has it all: the SilverStone Fortress FT02 B/R Window.
It has 90-degree motherboard mounting design that makes a favorable effect for natural heat convection. The CPU fan is oriented in to the path of the coming air flow.
Features one 120mm exhaust top fan and three 180mm intake bottom fans for efficient ventilation and effective system cooling. All of them can be fixed at low rpm (900rpm), not PWM speed regulation here. Positive air pressure, that means that the flux of air is bigger in the intake than the outtake creating an air pressure inside the case that makes better cooling and avoid the dust from coming in.
Filters for dust in the intake fans, the 180mm ones, and in the intake for the PSU ventilation.
The temperature is practically constant at 39ºC for the CPU, 39ºC for the MB and 62ºC for the North Bridge. Reading some reviews, the noise is 19db with the mentioned fan´s speed. What I can say is that at two metter from the case I can´t hear any noise.
Five external 5.25" drive bays, five internal 3.5" drive bays and one 2.5’’ drive bay. Hot-swap connectors
Supports liquid cooling radiator mounting (just in case)
Motherboard back plate opening behind CPU area for quick cooler assembly
Foam padded interior for advanced noise absorption
Finally if it´s nice looking or not you can judge by yourself looking at the pictures.

- Case:  SilverStone Fortress FT02 B/R Window http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2010/08/12/silverstone-ft02r-w-review/1

UPDATE
(May 2016)I removed all the case fans. I only use a Noctua NF-S12A (600rpm/6.7db) for the CPU ant that´s the only fan in the whole Audio Pc.



FOR THE ONES WHO HAVE THE NOS1 dac

UPDATE
(April. 2012): Now I use an USB 3.0 cable with USB 2.0 adapter to connect the NOS1 dac to a TeckNet USB 3.0 PCI Express Card (Renesas USB 3.0 Driver 2.0.34.0) in the Music PC.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004S0Y9FK/ref=oh_o02_s00_i00_details

UPDATE
(April 2013): To get cleaner power for the TeckNet USB 3.0 PCI Express Card I use now an ApeXi Power Filter Card which I find very effective http://www.ebay.es/itm/251232340488?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_754wt_906. Take a look also to this topic: http://www.phasure.com/index.php?topic=2551.60

Update
(June 2013) I don´t use the Filter Card with Windows 8 as it seems to get better sound without it if using this OS

Update
(January 2014) I have changed the USB3.0 PCIe card and now I use the Silverstone EC04-P: http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=364&area=en. This card must be isolated from the PC case. Please read this posts: http://www.phasure.com/index.php?topic=2838.0

USB cable: There are different opinions about if the USB cable that connects the NOS1 and the Music PC has some influence in the Sound Quality. I use a Mapleshade Clearlink cable and for me it works very well: http://shop.mapleshadestore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=USBLINK3P
I´m using also the USB 2.0 cable provided by Peter with the NOS1/NOS1a, this is a standard and very cheap cable that works very well, it has a very well balanced sound

Update
(December 2014) I´ve upgraded the NOS1 to NOS1a and later to NOS1a 75B with Blaxius BNC interlinks
http://www.phasure.com/index.php?topic=3068.0

Update
(February 2016) Now I also use the USB Clairixa cable, the RAM-Disk, and another Pc as Music Server


To date (April 2016) this is the configuration of my system:


Music Server PC (W10) totally silent with OS (W10) in SSD and music inside in SSDs - RDC > Ethernet Gigabyte cable 3m > Audio Pc with the Ram-disk OS and XXHE in memory> USB Clairixa cable 0.20m> Intona (industrial v., no-flash mod.) > USB Clairixa cable 1.80m> PHASURE NOS1a-75B (Driver v1.0.4) > Blaxius BNC interconnects > Genelec 1037B 3-Way Active speakers with BNC inputs



Conclusion: this is just on how I´ve built my new PC, or better said, why I´ve chosen the different parts to build a PC to work with XXHighEnd but, being it a nice experience as it was, it´s not the best part of all. The best part of all is the sound I get from the whole front end:
The PC
The software inside it: XXHighEnd
The Dac: Phasure NOS1 that of course is the Jewell of the Crown.

About that sound I´ll let you know also my opinion once I get more time on the NOS1.

I hope all of this helps someone to get better sound and enjoy the music as much as possible.

I´ll be glad to help if anyone wants more information on any specific issue.



Note: (1) PeterSt: A Guide to Glitchless Playback (Forum: August 11, 2010).http://www.phasure.com/index.php?topic=1356.0
Please read and reread it carefully because there it is basically how everything works. Could be hard to understand totally but try it as much as possible.


Cheers,
juanpmar



I opened a new thread called Links an information to build a PC for XXHighEnd where you can find some web sites to get information: http://www.phasure.com/index.php?topic=1880.msg19201;topicseen#msg19201

[Nick]

Juanpmar hi,

Great post, very interesting. I have a couple of questions if you don't mind.

Did the PC work first time with XX and the NOS1 ? (If so the component choices are interesting for me as I will need to upgrade some time soon).

What do you think the to sound quality compared to your old PC, have the extra speed, quality PSUs etc made many difference to sound ?

Thanks Nick.

Ps that's one nice looking system you have in the audio system pictures 

[juanpmar]

Hi Nick,

Yes, the PC worked since the first moment with XX and the NOS1. I tried to mimic the Peter´s settings at first to avoid any error and also I maintained  the PC as clean as possible. I mean no tweaks or changing anything on the W Ultimate. The sound is really great but I have no more than around 100 hours on the NOS1 yet. I have the NOS1 working 24/7 so in a week or so I´ll post about the sound again.

Before this PC I used my laptop and an USB connection, the sound was nice trought the EMM Labs dac but nothing that could be compared to the new set up. The sound now is even better than when I used my EMM Labs as the only front end reading cds.

Thanks for your kind words about my system.

[juanpmar]

I´ve been looking around for something to use as a remote without Wi-Fi and I´ve found this X-Keys devices: http://www.piengineering.com/xkeys.php

Not totally remote of course but kind of, the advantages are obvious over the standard keyboard: size, simplification, speed...

The most interesting models could be the XK-24 and the X-Desktop. Has anyone tried any of these "remotes" with the XXHighEnd HOT KEYS?

[juanpmar]

I´m still adding some hardware to the PC and the NOS1.

For the PC I´ve got a Cherry keyboard G84-4700 to use it for the macros as a pseudo remote control http://www.cherry.de/english/products/keypads_Keypad_G84-4700.htm

For the NOS1, as you know the position of the power plug is a little strange and it´s not a good idea to get all the cables there in the back of the dac touching each other. To avoid touching the DVI cable with the power cable a good solution is an adapter in L shape. I bought one from Voodoo cables and although a little expensive is very well made and solves the problem. See the Horizontal Right-Angle 15 amp IEC Adapter http://www.voodoocable.net/VAPA.htm

[Gerard]

http://www.cherry.de/english/products/keypads_Keypad_G84-4700.htm[/url]

For the NOS1, as you know the position of the power plug is a little strange and it´s not a good idea to get all the cables there in the back of the dac touching each other. To avoid touching the DVI cable with the power cable a good solution is an adapter in L shape. I bought one from Voodoo cables and although a little expensive is very well made and solves the problem. See the Horizontal Right-Angle 15 amp IEC Adapter http://www.voodoocable.net/VAPA.htm

Why didnt you buy something like this? http://www.allekabels.nl/Apparaatsnoer/1245/3650/Netsnoer.html

That is a lot cheaper?

But good idear! 

 

[juanpmar]

Hi Gerard, I didn´t buy the cable you mention because with the Voodoo adapter I can plug my power cords that are way better than those standard ones. In general I have my doubts about pcs but only if we´re talking about a certain quality. For sure there´s a difference in between those stock cables and the Foundation Research I use, although mines are midle price cables.

[manisandher]

Hi juanpmar, thanks so much for starting this thread. I have a friend who is interested in buying a NOS1 and has asked me to put a PC together for him. I can't replicate my own music PCs for him as the Zalman TNN cases I use are no longer made, and in any event, the mobos/components have moved on in the last 18 months or so. This thread will really help me to put a nice PC together for him.

Thanks.

Mani.

[juanpmar]

Thanks Mani, I´m glad to help, don´t hesitate to contact me if you need some more information

[praphan]

Hello Juan,

Just wanna to share you my thought about running the AC power cord parallel with interconnect or spk cable.

As a general rule to avoid any EMI to IC or Spk cable generated by AC power, attention must be paid to the layout of these cables. Digital equipments like DAC or CD player can be quite sensitive to the EMI. You wouldn't want the power cable to run along parallel with a spk or IC, and thereby pick up a bit of grunge that hadn't been present before. If you had to have it run parallel, you'd like them to be at least 12 inches apart. Otherwise, they have to run cross path. It is best to do it abruptly at a 90 degree angle.

I think Peter had given it a thorough thought before deciding on NOS1 connector layout at the back. You can run power cord at 90 degree crossing with IC. Please see the attached photo. I made my own power cable using JPS Labs bulk in-wall cord (with silver coated, very flexible, with noise rejecting quality) and Wattgate 350i cryogenically treated gold plated IEC plug. This red cable is flexible enough to squeez into the back of NOS1. As you can see, the power cable can run 90 degree with my Nordost Valhalla balanced ICs. However, the power cord is running almost parallel to the DVI cable, but based on my listening experience , there is no problem.

All in all, the above is just theory. You have to trust your ears. Make slight change one at a time and compare to your reference CD and sound to compare those changes.

My two cents again.
Praphan

[Nick]

Juanpmar,

Some positive feed back on your ATX supply suggestion.

I bought the Coasir AX750 PSU you have used a coupe of week ago after reading your build review. It’s defiantly a high quality item with what look like very good quality components internally and a high standard of overall finish. Fitting the supply produced a definite positive change in the sound quality compared to my old £50 ATX supply. The fan has so far not come on at all in my PC so it is running completely silently  and there is no electrical noise from the cooling fan. Great !

Thanks for the recomendation,

Nick.

[BertD]

Hello Praphan,

Thanks for the picture....but what is that battery doing there? 

Bert

[praphan]

Birt,

The 9v batt is just sitting on the DVI connector to release strain from the thin lead.  I am not quite sure if your NOS1 came with two digitals volt meters sitting on the digital PSU. You should be able to see these volt meters through H and A die cut letters. The v meters are used to calibrate the differentail output offset. This 9 v batt is used to power these two v meters.

If you don't have one , please contact Peter.

Best
Praphan

[juanpmar]

Hi Praphan, good cables indeed!!.
Well, of course if you must cross the cables it´s better to do it at 90º but it´s better even if you don´t cross the pc at all with the other cables. With the adapter you can do that and avoid to run the pc parallel to the DVI cable. By the way, the idea of using an L adapter was not mine from the start, it was suggested by Peter when we were talking about the placement of the cables in the NOS1, and yes you´re right, Peter told me that if there´s a distance of more than 3 cmts in between the DVI and the PC he couldn´t measure any interference at all. But still I think that it´s better if you can avoid that proximity. Then I looked around and found the Voodoo adapters that works perfectly.
As the interconnect cables are really close to the DVI cable I use a wrist rests from Allsop that separates a little more those cables, I know this is a home made remedy, but it works.

Nick, thanks for your feedback, I´m glad that the Corsair ATX750 PSU works so nicely for you, I can´t hear the fan either.

[BertD]

If you don't have one , please contact Peter.

Thanks and no, I do not have those digital voltmeters to adjust myself. Good to know that these are adjustable as my amplifier is DC coupled and more than 10mV is then not desired. Not a problem with my present speakers though (these have somewhere in the path a capacitor anyhow).

I thought the battery was needed for a tweak (making capacitors "active").

Bert

Sorry Peter for being off-topic here (it is of no real use to start a new topic about this)